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Eggs from China

Zaodan糟蛋

Zaodan are duck eggs with their shells cracked, then cured for months in rice wine with salt, vinegar and black sugar, until the shell turns soft and the white sets to a gel. It is a boundary case rather than a microbial ferment of the egg itself; ethanol and acetic acid from the wine soak through the shell and membrane and do the work. In a lab version the white fell from pH 9.23 to 5.3.

Fully documentedEggs4.6 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe "traditional method" curing mix of Sun et al. 2018, a liquid wine version made in a lab. No source read here gives amounts for factory or Yibin curing.
Fresh duck eggs, 70–80 g each, cracked or thin-shelled ones removed[sun2018]
Erguotou baijiu and yellow rice wineTo 25 % ethanol by volume[sun2018]
Salt5 %[sun2018]
Black sugar5 %[sun2018]
Vinegar10 %[sun2018]
Starterother: rice wine (the ethanol and acetic acid, not live microbes, cure the egg)

Total time across the recorded steps: 4.6 months

Start
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What changes: Fresh duck eggs are checked, washed and air-dried

Step 1 of 4
Select, wash and dry the eggs
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Cracked or thin-shelled eggs are removed.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Zaodan are duck eggs with their shells cracked, then cured for months in rice wine with salt, vinegar and black sugar, until the shell turns soft and the white sets to a gel. It is a boundary case rather than a microbial ferment of the egg itself; ethanol and acetic acid from the wine soak through the shell and membrane and do the work. In a lab version the white fell from pH 9.23 to 5.3. Made in 4 steps over 4.6 months. The longest step, cure until the egg sets, takes at least 4.6 months (Sun N 2018). Salt is 5 % (Sun N 2018).

Key numbers
Main stepat least 4.6 monthsReported[sun2018]Cure until the egg sets
Salt5 %Reported[sun2018]Submerge in the curing mix
AciditypH 9.2 → 5.3Measured[sun2018]Cure until the egg sets

What makes this one different

Salted eggs cure in brine and century eggs in alkali. Zaodan cure in rice wine with salt, vinegar and black sugar, so the egg turns acidic, not alkaline, and the shell goes soft.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Pinghu zaodanJiaxing (Zhejiang) speciality with a history of more than 250 years; once sent as tribute to the emperor. Chicken, duck, goose and quail eggs can all be used.
  • Xufu zaodan (Yibin)Sichuan wine-cured egg from Yibin, one of three famous kinds named by Wang and You (2010); the abstract gives no recipe.
  • Xincheng Gaogongxing zaodanHard-shell wine-cured egg from Jiaxing, named with the soft-shell Pinghu and Yibin kinds by Wang and You (2010); the abstract gives no recipe.
  • Vacuum zaodanCured at 25 °C under −0.08 MPa, which cut the curing time from 20 weeks to about 9 weeks in one study.

Safety

China Daily says the best way to enjoy the egg is raw, so eaten that way it gets no cooking step to kill bacteria. The FDA says fresh eggs, even with clean, uncracked shells, may contain Salmonella. No source read here tests the microbial safety of zaodan, so none shows that the cure kills it; Sun et al. cite a 2010 paper on the microbial safety of Pinghu zaodan (Meng et al.) that we could not read. In the lab version the curing liquid was brought to 25 % ethanol by volume with 5 % salt and 10 % vinegar, and the egg white ended at pH 5.3 with 4.53 % salt. China Daily also printed a home recipe of 7 days in vinegar and 7 days in rice wine sauce with no alcohol or salt figure; it is left out here because nothing we read shows such a short soak is safe to eat uncooked. The NHS says to avoid raw or undercooked duck, goose and quail eggs in pregnancy. Sun et al. removed cracked or thin-shelled eggs before curing.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Sun et al. (2018) say zaodan originated in the Qing dynasty, more than 270 years ago. China Daily (2021) says Pinghu eggs preserved in wine, a Jiaxing speciality, have a history of more than 250 years and were once presented as tribute to the emperor. Wang and You (2010) name the Pinghu soft-shell, Yibin Xufu and Jiaxing Xincheng Gaogongxing hard-shell kinds as the most famous.

Microbes
No study we found names its microbes.
  1. [sun2018] Sun N., Liu H., Zhang X., Wang H., Liu S., Chen P., Yu W., Liu K. 2018, Physical, chemical properties and structural changes of zaodan pickled by vacuum decompression technology, Korean J. Food Sci. Anim. Resour. 38(2):291, doi:10.5851/kosfa.2018.38.2.291paper
  2. [chinadaily2021] China Daily (Zhejiang) 2021-12-03, Pinghu eggs preserved in wineweb
  3. [wang2010] Wang J.-G. and You M.-T. 2010, Process techniques and features of Chinese wine cured egg, China Brewing 29(9):138-141 (abstract)paper
  4. [fda-eggs] US Food and Drug Administration, What You Need to Know About Egg Safetygov
  5. [nhs-preg] NHS (UK), Foods to avoid in pregnancy (eggs section)gov