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Fermented milk from Italy, Lombardia
Furmagg de ségia is a re-fermented cheese pack from the Varese valleys. Discs of raw-milk goat or mixed cheeses are stacked in a staved wooden tub, the ségia, with ground pepper, moistened with whey, milk or cream, weighted with stones and left in a cool cellar for at least 40 days. It turns sharp and piquant, either spreadable or hard.
| Small raw-milk goat cheeses (formaggelle), or mixed cow and goat cheeses | Cut into horizontal discs; soft pieces fill the gaps[pat-sheet] |
| Ground black pepper | Dusted on the layers[pat-sheet] |
| Salt | Alternated with the cheese layers[pat-sheet] |
| Whey, milk or cream | To moisten the pack; in Curiglia water and whey were used[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 40 days – 4 months
What changes: Small goat cheeses are cut into flat discs
Output: discs of goat or mixed cheese.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Furmagg de ségia is a re-fermented cheese pack from the Varese valleys. Discs of raw-milk goat or mixed cheeses are stacked in a staved wooden tub, the ségia, with ground pepper, moistened with whey, milk or cream, weighted with stones and left in a cool cellar for at least 40 days. It turns sharp and piquant, either spreadable or hard. Made in 5 steps over 40 days – 4 months. The longest step, ripen in a cool cellar, takes 40 days – 4 months (Regione Lombardia) and runs at 10–14 °C (Regione Lombardia).
| Main step | 40 days – 4 monthsReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen in a cool cellar |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–14 °CReported[pat-sheet] | Ripen in a cool cellar |
| Acidity | pH 5.2Reported[pat-sheet] | Ripen in a cool cellar |
Furmagg de ségia is not made from milk but from finished cheeses, re-fermented under weight with pepper. It was a way to keep cheeses that were too hard, too runny or too small through the winter.
The pack ripens at 10–14 °C in a cool cellar. Historically it was made in autumn, when the cold kept the re-fermentation from running too fast. Excess liquid is drained off through the holes in the tub during ripening, and the finished product has a pH of 5.2. The PAT sheet describes it as made from raw-milk goat cheeses, possibly mixed with others, and lists no heat treatment. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Gruyère or Comté, because of Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Made by almost every family in Val Veddasca at the end of the pasture season in September and October, as a way to keep small or defective cheeses through the winter; the ségia was a ritual that marked the end of the grazing season. Veronelli's 1968 guide named the ségia of Arcumeggia, which still holds a yearly Sagra del Bicc on the first Sunday of September. Production never stopped altogether but shrank to home use, and some of the last makers turned to industrial cheeses. The Varese provincial administration surveyed local goat-milk traditions in 2008, and some farms with goats in Val Veddasca have since revived it (Corti).
