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Cheese from Italy, Lombardia
Raw goat milk, warm from milking or brought to 30–35 °C, is set with liquid rennet in 30–60 minutes, broken to walnut or hazelnut size and drained in small oval moulds. The tiny cheeses of about 80 g are eaten unsalted after a day or two, or dry-salted, kept warm for a week and ripened 1–3 weeks in a natural cellar, where a white bloom or red-orange smear grows.
| Raw whole goat milk | From Camosciata delle Alpi, Nera di Verzasca and local cross goats on extensive pasture[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Liquid calf rennet, or home-made kid rennet | Home-made from dried kid stomachs extracted in salted water or whey[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Native or selected starter culturesoptional | [onaf-sheet] |
| Saltoptional | Only for cheeses that will be ripened[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | optional native or selected cultures |
Total time across the recorded steps: 15 days – 30 days
What changes: Liquid rennet goes into goat milk at 30–35 °C, which sets in 30–60 minutes
ONAF gives 30–34 °C and 0.5–2 hours.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw goat milk, warm from milking or brought to 30–35 °C, is set with liquid rennet in 30–60 minutes, broken to walnut or hazelnut size and drained in small oval moulds. The tiny cheeses of about 80 g are eaten unsalted after a day or two, or dry-salted, kept warm for a week and ripened 1–3 weeks in a natural cellar, where a white bloom or red-orange smear grows. Made in 6 steps over 15 days – 30 days. The longest step, ripen in a natural cellar, takes 7–21 days (Regione Lombardia).
| Main step | 7–21 daysReported[pat-sheet] | Ripen in a natural cellar |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30–35 °CReported[pat-sheet] | Add rennet to warm goat milk |
| Acidity | pH 5.6–6.3Reported[pat-sheet] | Ripen in a natural cellar |
A very small goat cheese of the Veddasca valleys, once shaped by pushing the curd through an oval perforated tube and cutting it with a knife. It is eaten unsalted within two days, or salted, kept warm a week and cellar-ripened into a bloomy or smeared cheese.
Made from raw goat milk and eaten young, so clean milk and cold storage at 4 °C for fresh cheeses matter. The ONAF sheet says raw-milk frumagit is considered riskier than the acid-set goat cheese, because it lacks that cheese's strong acidification. It credits one maker's clean record to healthy udders and scrupulous cleaning of tools and rooms, a producer's account and not a test of the cheese. WHO says most brucellosis cases come from unpasteurised milk or cheese from infected goats or sheep. ANSES names Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli as the main raw-milk cheese hazards. It advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children not to eat raw-milk cheeses, except cooked pressed ones such as Comté.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The ONAF sheet says goat keeping stayed common among local families even when an attempt was made, at the start of the nineteenth century, to ban goats to restore the pastures. The milk went into soups and into homemade frumagit, which later became a source of income when women carried it to Luino to sell at the market, packed in leaves in a back basket. The sheet adds that a food community, Comunità del cibo di Curiglia-Monteviasco, formed around it with local farmers and Slow Food Varese. Lombardy listed it as a traditional product from the 7th revision, by ministerial decree of 19 June 2007.
