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Vegetables from Japan
The Engishiki, a code of court rules completed in 927, lists the yearly pickles of the imperial kitchen. Spring and autumn vegetables were salted at about 3–6 % by volume, or packed in sake lees, hishio or ground grain. A 2016 reconstruction found that the low salt worked only when the vegetables were weighted under their own liquid with no air.
| Bracken2 koku (142 L) | Engishiki salt pickle[s1] |
| Salt1 to (7.1 L) | For the 2 koku of bracken, about 5 % by volume[s1] |
| Young ginger4 koku 5 to | Engishiki lees pickle[s1] |
| Salt, and liquid sake lees (shirukasu)1 koku 4 to 2 shō, and 4 koku 2 to | For the 4 koku 5 to of ginger[s1] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days
What changes: Spring greens or autumn melons, eggplant and turnip are gathered
Output: spring or autumn vegetables.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The Engishiki, a code of court rules completed in 927, lists the yearly pickles of the imperial kitchen. Spring and autumn vegetables were salted at about 3–6 % by volume, or packed in sake lees, hishio or ground grain. A 2016 reconstruction found that the low salt worked only when the vegetables were weighted under their own liquid with no air. Made in 5 steps over 30 days. The longest step, let them sour, takes 30 days (Tsuchiyama H 2016). Salt is 4–5 % (Tsuchiyama H 2016). Acid-producing bacteria, probably lactic, at counts close to the total bacteria in reconstructed eggplant and turnip pickles does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30 daysReported[s1] | Let them sour |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 4–5 %Reported[s1] | Salt the vegetables |
| Acidity | pH 3.3–5.3Measured[s1] | Let them sour |
The Engishiki pickles were salted at only about 3–6 % by volume, far less than long-keeping modern salt pickles. The reconstruction showed they kept only when weighted under their own liquid with air shut out, so the authors think many were short-term pickles.
Low salt (about 3–6 % by volume) needs an air-tight, weighted pack; in the reconstruction, mould grew within about a week whenever air got in. The authors note that long keeping today needs 10 % salt or more, and 12 % or more for six months. The bracken amounts are a court record and not a recipe. Bracken contains ptaquiloside, a carcinogen, and a 2023 study of soaked, dried bracken bought in Korea judged it unsafe unboiled and recommends boiling it at least 20 minutes (Kim 2023). Even boiled, it passed only in the study's average exposure scenario, not in its maximum one, which used the highest toxin level measured. The study did not test pickled bracken. In the reconstruction, salted bracken first treated with baking soda and hot water stayed at pH 6.4, was not properly pickled and smelled strongly of rot.
Hazards the sources name: Ptaquiloside, a carcinogen measured in soaked, dried bracken fern bought in Korea, not in these pickles (a plant toxin, not a microbe).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Emperor Daigo ordered the Engishiki compiled in 905 and it was presented in 927 (Wikipedia). Its Naizenshi chapter lists the yearly pickles (tsuke-nenryō zassai) of the imperial kitchen. A wooden tablet from the Sairyūji temple site in Nara names susuhori, and the Nara research institute links it to the Engishiki's turnip susuhori made with salt, soybeans and rice.
