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Cheese from Italy, Marche
Raw goat milk, still at milking temperature, is set by stirring it with a notched fig twig whose latex curdles the milk instead of rennet. The curd is broken to rice-grain size, drained in moulds, pressed by hand and dry-salted for up to two days. It is eaten fresh or aged from one month to about a year.
| Raw whole goat milk | From goats on open pasture, forage and cereal and legume mixes[pat-sheet] |
| A fig-tree twig, notched so its latex runs | The latex is the coagulant; left in too long it makes the cheese bitter[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Salt, for dry-salting | [pat-sheet] |
| Starter | the native bacteria, which tinned copper kettles and wooden tools preserve |
Total time across the recorded steps: 32 days – 12 months
What changes: A notched fig twig turns in the warm milk and its latex sets the curd
A notched fig twig is dipped in the milk and turned until the milk sets. It takes skill, because too long in the milk makes the cheese bitter. Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
the fig latex is the coagulant, in place of rennet
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw goat milk, still at milking temperature, is set by stirring it with a notched fig twig whose latex curdles the milk instead of rennet. The curd is broken to rice-grain size, drained in moulds, pressed by hand and dry-salted for up to two days. It is eaten fresh or aged from one month to about a year. Made in 5 steps over 32 days – 12 months. The longest step, ripen and age, takes 30 days – 12 months (Regione Marche 2014). Mesophilic lactococci and mesophilic lactobacilli, which reached about 8 and 7.5 log CFU/g over 90 days of ripening in Cilentana, a related raw goat cheese of Campania that relied on the milk's own microbiota does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30 days – 12 monthsReported[pat-sheet] | Ripen and age |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 36–38 °CReported[onaf-sheet][pat-sheet] | Set with a fig twig |
The milk is set with latex from a notched fig twig instead of rennet, a method from the past that was recovered for this cheese. Women once drew the latex.
Made from raw goat milk. Fresh cheeses are young raw-milk cheeses; aged ones ripen at least a month. ANSES, the French food safety agency, names Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli as the main hazards of raw-milk cheeses. It advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children not to eat raw-milk cheeses, except cooked pressed ones such as Comté.
Hazards the sources name: Coliforms (still about 5.5 log CFU/g at day 90), E. coli and coagulase-positive staphylococci (about 2.8 and 2.6 log CFU/g at day 30; below the counting limits of 10 and 100 CFU/g by day 60) in four batches from one farm of Cilentana, a related raw goat cheese of Campania; S. aureus was still found in one 30-day cheese; Salmonella and Listeria monocytogenes were not detected in any sample.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Women once drew fig latex to set milk. Montefeltro cheesemakers kept the method and still use wooden tools and tinned copper kettles. The regional sheet cites G. Picchi's 2001 guide to the Montefeltro.
