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Cheese from Italy, Lombardia
Whole goat milk, raw or pasteurised, gets lactic cultures and calf rennet and sets in about 30 minutes at 35 °C. The curd is cut in a cross, then broken to walnut size, drained in moulds and dry-salted by hand. It is sold fresh after about 3 days or ripened at least a week, when a thin white mould skin forms.
| Whole goat milk, raw or pasteurised | Traditionally raw and freshly milked; or kept at 4 °C for at most 24 hours[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Lactic cultures | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Calf liquid rennet | [onaf-sheet] |
| Salt, for dry-salting | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Herbs and spices on the surface (optional) | [onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | lactic cultures |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 days – 7 days
What changes: The goat milk warms and lactic cultures go in
Heated over a wood, gas or steam fire; lactic cultures go in while it warms.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole goat milk, raw or pasteurised, gets lactic cultures and calf rennet and sets in about 30 minutes at 35 °C. The curd is cut in a cross, then broken to walnut size, drained in moulds and dry-salted by hand. It is sold fresh after about 3 days or ripened at least a week, when a thin white mould skin forms. Made in 6 steps over 3 days – 7 days. The longest step, ripen fresh or aged, takes 3–7 days (Regione Lombardia) and runs at 4–12 °C (ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters)).
| Main step | 3–7 daysReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen fresh or aged |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4–12 °CReported[onaf-sheet] | Ripen fresh or aged |
The rennet-set counterpart of Lombardy's lactic caprino. Rennet sets it in about 30 minutes instead of 12–36 hours, and the firmer curd is cut before moulding.
It may be made from raw milk and is eaten after only 3–7 days, so a raw-milk batch is a fresh raw-milk cheese. The US FDA links raw milk and raw milk products to illness from Listeria, Campylobacter, Salmonella and E. coli, including miscarriages, kidney failure and deaths. The elderly, people with weak immune systems, children and pregnant women are especially vulnerable, and the FDA supports pasteurisation to protect against it.
Hazards the sources name: Bacillus cereus (a very low 1.00 log CFU/g in one positive goat-milk caprino sample, in a survey of pasteurised-milk fresh cheeses sold in Italy; a related cheese, not this one).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The regional sheet says it is one of the best-known cheeses made from whole goat milk and is made in every Lombard province. The ONAF sheet, citing ERSAF Lombardia, says goats were always kept by Lombard families for their own food, mostly in the mountains, and that it is made most often around Lake Como (the Lariana area). It adds that the Region holds documents proving production for more than 25 years, that the milk was traditionally used raw and freshly drawn, and that it may now be pasteurised.
