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Cereals and bread from Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Sri Lanka

Appam / hoppers (toddy-leavened rice pancake)അപ്പം

A batter of rice, coconut milk, a little sugar and salt is left for a few hours to ferment, traditionally with palm toddy and today often with yeast. It is swirled in a small, deep pan and covered, so it cooks into a bowl-shaped pancake with crisp, lacy edges and a soft, spongy centre.

Fully documentedCereals and bread3 h – 5 h

Recipe

Appam / hoppers (toddy-leavened rice pancake), a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: VinPrasad, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Amounts from a sourceThe control batter of a laboratory study (100 g rice flour). Home recipes are not given in the sources used here.
Rice flour100 g[manickavasagan2014]
Coconut milk powder50 g[manickavasagan2014]
White sugar15 gFood for the yeast; it also helps the crust brown[manickavasagan2014]
Salt2 g[manickavasagan2014]
WaterTo a smooth, pourable batter[manickavasagan2014]
Palm toddy or yeast (traditional starters)[manickavasagan2014][wp-appam]
Starterother: palm toddy (traditional) or baker's yeast

Total time across the recorded steps: 3 h – 5 h

Start
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What changes: Rice flour is mixed with water into a batter base

Step 1 of 4
Mix the rice flour with water
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactobacillus
Yeasts
Moulds
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Lactic acid bacteria

In the laboratory study the batter began with 100 g of rice flour. Output: batter base.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

A batter of rice, coconut milk, a little sugar and salt is left for a few hours to ferment, traditionally with palm toddy and today often with yeast. It is swirled in a small, deep pan and covered, so it cooks into a bowl-shaped pancake with crisp, lacy edges and a soft, spongy centre. Made in 4 steps over 3 h – 5 h. The longest step, ferment for a few hours, takes 3–5 h (Manickavasagan A 2014) and runs at 28–30 °C (Manickavasagan A 2014). Salt is 2 % (Manickavasagan A 2014). Lactobacillus, rising from 2.30 to 5.36 log cfu/g in 5 h and Yeasts and moulds, counted in the batter do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step3–5 hReported[manickavasagan2014]Ferment for a few hours
Temperature28–30 °CReported[manickavasagan2014]Ferment for a few hours
Salt2 %Reported[manickavasagan2014]Mix in coconut milk, sugar, salt and toddy or yeast
AciditypH 7 → 5.9Measured[manickavasagan2014]Ferment for a few hours

What makes this one different

Appam is a sweet, coconut rice batter fermented for only a few hours with yeast or toddy, so it stays mild. Dosa, a close relative, later added black lentils to its rice batter (Wikipedia).

Related ferments

Variants

  • KallappamNamed for kallu, Malayalam for palm toddy, the traditional leaven; Christians in Kerala prepare it on special occasions such as Easter, and yeast now often replaces the toddy (Wikipedia).
  • Egg hopper (Sri Lanka)An egg cracked into the centre.
  • VattayappamA steamed cake of rice flour, sugar and coconut, a tea-time snack in Kerala households (Wikipedia).
  • Kue apem / apam (Indonesia)A steamed cake of rice flour, coconut milk, yeast and palm sugar, usually served with grated coconut.
  • Idiyappam / string hoppersNot fermented; steamed rice-flour noodles.

Safety

FDA's general advice on flour applies to the raw batter. Flour is a raw food, and processing grains into flour does not kill harmful bacteria such as Salmonella and pathogenic E. coli. FDA says never to eat or taste raw flour, dough or batter, and that cooking is the step that makes flour foods safe, so the batter is only eaten once it has set in the hot covered pan. This is a general rule for flour, not a finding about appam. The sources used here give no storage limit for the fermented batter.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Mentioned in Tamil Sangam literature (Perumpāṇāṟṟuppaṭai). Eighteenth-century accounts describe the agape cakes of the Saint Thomas Christians, and Cochin Jews used fresh toddy.

  1. [manickavasagan2014] Manickavasagan A., Kumar C.S., Sivakumar N., Prathibha R. 2014, Effect of dates on fermentation of appam batter, J Pure Appl Microbiol 8 (Spl. Edn. 1):305–311paper
  2. [tamang2016] Tamang, Watanabe, Holzapfel, "Review: Diversity of Microorganisms in Global Fermented Foods and Beverages", Front. Microbiol. 7:377, 2016 (toddy microbes)paper
  3. [wp-appam] Wikipedia, Appam (outline, variants and history; cites Achaya 1997, 2003; Paolino 1800)wiki
  4. [fda-flour] U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Handling Flour Safely, What You Need to Know (consumer page)gov