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Fish and seafood from Spain
European anchovies are salted, headed and gutted, then packed in barrels in layers with salt and pressed for months while the flesh ripens. The ripened fish are cleaned and filleted, and in Spain most are packed in olive oil as a chilled semi-preserve. Ripening is mostly the work of the fish's own enzymes in strong brine.
| Fresh European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) | Spanish rules reserve the name "anchoa" for this species[velasco2016] |
| Salt10–15 % for the final barrel salting | Presalting on board uses 3–5 %; the whole fish are then brined at 25–30 %[durand1982] |
| Olive oil or another vegetable oil | 39 of 63 Spanish products sampled used olive oil[velasco2016] |
| Starter | other: the brine is not sterile, since the salt carries extremely halophilic microbes and the fish carry sea-water bacteria (Campello 1985, French Basque anchovies) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6 months – 20 months
What changes: A light salting on board preserves the fish
Output: lightly salted fish.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
European anchovies are salted, headed and gutted, then packed in barrels in layers with salt and pressed for months while the flesh ripens. The ripened fish are cleaned and filleted, and in Spain most are packed in olive oil as a chilled semi-preserve. Ripening is mostly the work of the fish's own enzymes in strong brine. Made in 6 steps over 6 months – 20 months. The longest step, layer with salt in barrels and press to ripen, takes 4–18 months (Durand P. 1982) and runs at 20 °C (Durand P. 1982). Salt is 3–5 % (Durand P. 1982). Pediococcus halophilus does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 4–18 monthsReported[durand1982] | Layer with salt in barrels and press to ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 20 °CReported[durand1982] | Layer with salt in barrels and press to ripen |
| Salt | 3–5 %Reported[durand1982] | Presalt on board |
| Acidity | pH 5.2–5.3Measured[durand1982] | Layer with salt in barrels and press to ripen |
The anchovies ripen in salt for months under pressure, so enzymes, not acid, change the flesh. They are filleted only after ripening and kept chilled, unlike sterilised canned fish.
EU rules set a histamine limit for fishery products that have undergone enzyme maturation in brine and are made from histidine-rich species such as anchovy. Of nine samples, none may exceed 400 mg/kg and no more than two may exceed 200 mg/kg (Regulation (EC) No 2073/2005, Annex I, row 1.27). An FAO review notes that Pediococcus halophilus can form histamine during long storage at ambient temperatures of 20–25 °C.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Velasco et al. (2016) say consumers link a geographical name such as Cantabria with high quality, because of the species and the process. They say the species was seasonally caught by the artisanal fleet in the Cantabrian Sea and preserved by the local industry. They add that no protected geographical indication for anchovies had yet been approved, so Cantabria issued a regional rule in 2014 (GAN 18) for a Controlled Quality label.
