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Sauces and condiments from Britain
Anchovies that have ripened in salt for about a year are pounded, warmed with a little water until they melt, seasoned with cayenne and rubbed through a sieve into a thick bottled sauce. It is a boundary entry; the fermentation happens earlier, while the salted fish mature, not in the sauce itself.
| Salted anchovies10–12 | Mellow fish that have been in pickle about twelve months; Kitchiner names Gorgona anchovies[kitchiner1821] |
| Cold spring water1 tablespoon | Or sherry, Madeira or mushroom ketchup instead of water[kitchiner1821] |
| Cayenne pepperA quarter of a drachm | [kitchiner1821] |
| Lemon peel, or vinegar or citric acidOptional | Lemon peel only for sauce used at once; acid for a sharper sauce[kitchiner1821] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months
What changes: Left in salt pickle for about twelve months, the anchovies mature and soften
Output: mellow salted anchovies.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Anchovies that have ripened in salt for about a year are pounded, warmed with a little water until they melt, seasoned with cayenne and rubbed through a sieve into a thick bottled sauce. It is a boundary entry; the fermentation happens earlier, while the salted fish mature, not in the sauce itself. Made in 5 steps over 12 months. The longest step, ripen the anchovies in salt, takes 12 months (Kitchiner W. 1821).
| Main step | 12 monthsReported[kitchiner1821] | Ripen the anchovies in salt |
|---|
Anchovy essence is made from whole salted anchovies pounded and sieved into a thick sauce, not from liquid drained during fermentation as colatura and Asian fish sauces are. Its own process takes minutes; the slow change happens beforehand, in the salt cure.
Anchovies belong to a fish family that EU law treats as high in histidine. For anchovies matured in brine, no more than two of nine samples may exceed 200 mg/kg histamine and none may exceed 400 mg/kg. Kitchiner already warned that air spoils the sauce, so bottles must be kept tightly closed.
Hazards the sources name: Histamine (anchovies belong to a family of high-histidine fish; EU rules set histamine limits for them).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Kitchiner's Cook's Oracle (3rd edition 1821) notes that Thomas Young claimed the invention in The Epicure (1815), and that Burgess of the Strand in London had long been famous for making it. Commercial essence was so cheap that Kitchiner advised buying rather than making it.
