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Cheese from Switzerland, Ticino
Zincarlin is a peppered acid-curd cheese from Ticino. Raw cow milk, sometimes with a little goat milk, is soured with starter and rennet for about a day, drained in a cloth, kneaded with salt and coarse black pepper and shaped by hand into a cone. The aged Muggio Valley cheese then spends about ten days in the same room and at least two months in a cool cellar, wiped often with white wine and salt.
| Fresh whole cow milk | Goat milk added when there is some; raw for the aged cheese[patrimoine-ch][slowfood] |
| Starter cultures and rennet | [patrimoine-ch] |
| Saltabout 1–1.2 % | Producers vary[patrimoine-ch] |
| Coarsely crushed black pepper | A generous amount; fresh cheeses may also get garlic or chives[patrimoine-ch] |
| White wine, whey, brine or grappa | For wiping the rind of the aged cheese[patrimoine-ch][slowfood] |
| Starter | starter cultures with rennet, acting for about 24 hours |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.4 months
What changes: Starting material: fresh raw cow milk, sometimes with a little goat milk
Mostly cow milk; goat milk goes in when available. The aged cheese uses raw milk only.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Zincarlin is a peppered acid-curd cheese from Ticino. Raw cow milk, sometimes with a little goat milk, is soured with starter and rennet for about a day, drained in a cloth, kneaded with salt and coarse black pepper and shaped by hand into a cone. The aged Muggio Valley cheese then spends about ten days in the same room and at least two months in a cool cellar, wiped often with white wine and salt. Made in 6 steps over 2.4 months. The longest step, age in a cool cellar, takes at least 2 months (Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine c…) and runs at 11–13 °C (Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine c…). Salt is 1–1.2 % (Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine c…).
| Main step | at least 2 monthsReported[patrimoine-ch][slowfood] | Age in a cool cellar |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 11–13 °CReported[patrimoine-ch] | Age in a cool cellar |
| Salt | 1–1.2 %Reported[patrimoine-ch] | Knead with salt and pepper and shape |
| Acidity | pH 4–4.5Reported[patrimoine-ch] | Hang in a cloth to drain |
It is a büsción-type acid curd made with lots of coarse black pepper. The aged Muggio Valley version is then wiped with white wine and salt for two months or more, which the fresh cheeses made across Ticino are not.
The aged cheese is made from raw milk. Makers drain the curd until it reaches about pH 4–4.5, then salt it. The FDA's pathogen table gives pH 4.4 as the lowest pH at which Listeria monocytogenes grows, so a curd at pH 4–4.5 is not clear of its range. The CDC advises people who are pregnant, aged 65 or over or immunocompromised to avoid unheated fresh soft cheeses and any cheese made with raw milk, because of Listeria (CDC).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Oral sources trace it in the Valle di Muggio over at least four generations, and the word was collected around 1920 for the dictionary of Italian-Swiss dialects. Unsold fresh cheeses were salted, peppered and kept in cellars. The aged cheese was nearly lost in the farm crisis of the 1980s, and became Switzerland's first Slow Food Presidium in 2004. The Ticino tourist board says it would have disappeared completely had Marialuce Valtulini not revived it, with the Associazione dei comuni del Generoso; she began making it at Salorino in 2005.
