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Cheese from Benin
Fresh whole cow milk is warmed, curdled with a crushed-leaf extract of the Sodom apple (Calotropis procera), cooked near the boil and drained in small baskets. It is a boundary entry, set by a plant enzyme and heat, not by fermentation; yeasts such as Kluyveromyces marxianus have been found in the finished cheese. It is often boiled again to keep, and may be dyed red.
| Fresh whole cow milk | Filtered; not standardised[dossou2022] |
| Calotropis procera leaf and stem extract7.9–19.0 g of milk per g of extract (two monitored methods) | Washed, crushed and ground with a little heated milk or water, then filtered[dossou2022] |
| Dye sorghum leaf sheaths, sorghum cobs or panicles, or teak leavesOptional | Soaked or boiled to make the red dye[dossou2022][odouaro2024] |
| Starter | not fermented; a plant protease (calotropain) from Calotropis procera curdles the milk |
Total time across the recorded steps: 1.2 h – 1.5 h
What changes: Filtered milk warms in a pot over the fire
Output: warm milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Fresh whole cow milk is warmed, curdled with a crushed-leaf extract of the Sodom apple (Calotropis procera), cooked near the boil and drained in small baskets. It is a boundary entry, set by a plant enzyme and heat, not by fermentation; yeasts such as Kluyveromyces marxianus have been found in the finished cheese. It is often boiled again to keep, and may be dyed red. Made in 7 steps over 1.2 h – 1.5 h. The longest step, cook the curd, takes 26–35 min (Dossou W.A. et al. 2022) and runs at 90–92 °C (Dossou W.A. et al. 2022).
| Main step | 26–35 minMeasured[dossou2022] | Cook the curd |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 90–92 °CMeasured[dossou2022] | Cook the curd |
Wagashi is curdled by the Sodom apple's plant enzyme in warm milk, then cooked near the boil, not set by rennet or souring. Nigerian wara is the same kind of cheese.
Kept at ambient temperature without treatment, it lasts only about 2 to 3 days, which is why it is re-boiled, salted or dried. Market cheeses often carry high counts of E. coli and other bacteria. A 2025 review also reports aflatoxins in this kind of cheese, with aflatoxin M1 from 0.03 to 7.5 µg/kg across studies. The Codex limit it cites, 0.5 µg/kg, is for raw milk, not cheese. Sodom apple (Calotropis procera) holds cardiac glycosides. The same review says it has been shown to cause acute toxicity in plant and animal cells, including humans, and that some studies suggest harm to the heart and liver. The review says the link between the plant's bioactivity and its toxicity is still underexplored. The same review reports mixed animal tests. An extract harmed guinea pigs only after more than 90 days, latex proteins by mouth caused no adverse immune reaction in mice, and the same proteins injected killed mice within an hour. One study found none of its phytochemicals in the finished cheese or whey, and its authors concluded that processing makes the cheese safe. That is one study, not proof of safety. This page records a tradition. Do not curdle milk with this plant at home.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli, Salmonella, Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus cereus reported in market West African soft cheese; Listeria monocytogenes in raw milk used for it in Nigeria; Cardiac glycosides and other compounds of Sodom apple (Calotropis procera), the coagulant plant; one study found none in the cheese or whey.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
In Benin the Peulh (Fulani) are the main makers and use all six known methods. Gando, Fon and Idaatcha makers, who use fewer methods, may have learnt the craft from them; the Gando traditionally serve the Peulh, and the Idaatcha of Dassa may have met the Peulh during their transhumance through the municipality.
