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Cheese from Spain, Extremadura

Torta de Barros

Raw milk of Merino sheep and their crosses is set with a coagulant from cardoon flowers (Cynara cardunculus). In the Extremadura torta method the milk sets at about 28 °C with no souring and is cut after 60–70 minutes, pressed only 2–3 hours and ripened cold, at 3–6 °C, for at least 60 days. The cardoon enzyme breaks down the casein and gives the soft, spoonable centre.

Fully documentedCheese2 months – 3 monthsnone (producer cheese in the Extremadura torta tradition, outside the Torta del Casar and Queso de la Serena PDO areas)Family: Hard pressed ewe cheese family (Manchego and Pecorino Romano as templates)

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedNo source gives a batch recipe for this cheese. The process numbers come from CICYTEX's technical sheet for Extremadura tortas in general.
Raw milk of Merino sheep and crossbreeds[icex2023][cicytex]
Vegetable coagulant from cardoon flowers (Cynara cardunculus)[brindisa][cicytex]
Salt, dry or as brine[cicytex]
Starterthe raw milk's own bacteria; CICYTEX says how fast a torta ferments depends on the bacteria in the raw milk (Extremadura tortas in general)

Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 3 months

Start
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28 °CpH at least 6.7

What changes: Cardoon-flower coagulant sets the raw ewe milk slowly at about 28 °C

Step 1 of 5
Set with cardoon
Time
1–1.2 h
Reported
Temperature
28 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
pH at least 6.7
Reported

The cardoon coagulant gives a softer curd than animal rennet.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Raw milk of Merino sheep and their crosses is set with a coagulant from cardoon flowers (Cynara cardunculus). In the Extremadura torta method the milk sets at about 28 °C with no souring and is cut after 60–70 minutes, pressed only 2–3 hours and ripened cold, at 3–6 °C, for at least 60 days. The cardoon enzyme breaks down the casein and gives the soft, spoonable centre. Made in 5 steps over 2 months – 3 months. The longest step, ripen cold, takes 2–3 months (CICYTEX (Centro de Investigaciones Científica…) and runs at 3–6 °C (CICYTEX (Centro de Investigaciones Científica…).

Key numbers
Main step2–3 monthsReported[cicytex][icex2023]Ripen cold
Temperature3–6 °CReported[cicytex]Ripen cold
AciditypH at least 6.7Reported[cicytex]Set with cardoon

What makes this one different

A cardoon-set Merino torta from Tierra de Barros, outside the Torta del Casar and Queso de la Serena PDO areas; ICEX describes its flavour as more intense than both.

Rind
Thin, pliable rind over a soft centre (ICEX, for torta-style cheeses in general)

Related ferments

Variants

  • Semicurado de BarrosSpends an extra month in the cellar
  • Añejo de BarrosAged three more months and vacuum-packed in extra virgin olive oil
  • Tortita de BarrosMade with goat milk

Safety

Made from raw milk and ripened at least 60 days in the Extremadura torta method. CICYTEX warns that milk stored cold too long grows proteolytic Pseudomonas, some of which can be toxigenic. In a study that deliberately added low levels of E. coli O157:H7 to raw milk for Cheddar and Gouda, counts fell during ageing, but it was still detectable after selective enrichment past 270 days. The authors suggest that 60 days alone does not eliminate it in those cheeses. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity to avoid raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Gruyère or Comté.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

For Extremadura torta-style cheeses in general, ICEX (Axelrod 2023) says they have been made for about 100 years, citing the Torta del Casar consortium. When the value of wool fell, sheep ranchers turned to milking and cheesemaking; local lore says a cardoon thistle fell into a milk vat and the torta was born. Quesería Tierra de Barros in Villafranca de los Barros, Badajoz, makes several torta-style cheeses from the raw milk of Merino sheep and crossbreeds. No source used here gives a date for Torta de Barros itself.

  1. [anses2022] ANSES 2022, Fromages au lait cru, quels risques pour la santé et comment mieux les prévenir (8 April 2022)gov
  2. [damico2010] D'Amico D.J., Druart M.J., Donnelly C.W. 2010, Behavior of Escherichia coli O157:H7 during the manufacture and aging of Gouda and stirred-curd Cheddar cheeses manufactured from raw milk, Journal of Food Protection 73:2217–2224 (abstract)paper
  3. [cicytex] CICYTEX (Centro de Investigaciones Científicas y Tecnológicas de Extremadura, Junta de Extremadura), technical sheet 'Tecnología de elaboración de las tortas' (c. 2009)gov
  4. [icex2023] Axelrod S.S. 2023, Spain's Torta-Style Cheeses Stand Out from the Crowd, ICEX Foods & Wines from Spain (January 2023)web
  5. [brindisa] Brindisa, product page 'Torta de Barros'web