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Vegetables from Kiso district, Nagano, Japan
Sunki is an unsalted lactic pickle of red turnip leaves from the Kiso valley. The leaves are dipped in hot water, layered warm with a seed of last year's sunki and some of the cooking water, kept warm for about a day and then left to sour slowly in the cold until the pH is about 3.7–4.3.
| Red turnip leaves and stems | Sometimes with chopped hypocotyl, which tints the brine pink[gi-sunki] |
| Sunki seed (sunki-dane) | Last year's sunki or brine, kept chilled, frozen or dried, or four lactic bacteria isolated from sunki[gi-sunki] |
| The blanching water, cooled to about 45 °C | [maff-sunki] |
| Saltnone | [gi-sunki] |
| Starter | backslop (sunki-dane from the previous year's batch, or isolated lactic acid bacteria) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 24 h
What changes: Starting material: red turnip leaves picked after the first frosts
Two or three frosts on the turnip fields in late October to November are said to matter; batches made too early fail [gi-sunki]. Output: frosted turnip leaves and stems.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sunki is an unsalted lactic pickle of red turnip leaves from the Kiso valley. The leaves are dipped in hot water, layered warm with a seed of last year's sunki and some of the cooking water, kept warm for about a day and then left to sour slowly in the cold until the pH is about 3.7–4.3. Made in 6 steps over 24 h. The longest step, keep warm for about a day, takes 24 h (MAFF 2017). Salt is 0 % (MAFF 2017). Lactobacillus species, dominant in all 29 samples studied and Lactobacillus otakiensis do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 24 hSet[gi-sunki][maff-sunki] | Keep warm for about a day |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 60 °CReported[maff-sunki] | Blanch leaves and stems |
| Salt | 0 %Set[gi-sunki] | Layer warm with seed and cover with cooking water |
| Acidity | pH 3.7–4.3Set[gi-sunki] | Move to a cold place and ferment slowly |
Sunki uses no salt at all. The leaves are blanched and soured by last year's seed [gi-sunki]. It comes from a cold highland, where the yearly mean is 7.4 °C in Kaida highland, and two or three frosts on the turnip fields before harvest are said to matter [gi-sunki]. Other unsalted leaf pickles, such as Niigata izekomi-na and Fukui sunana-zuke, are made in very small amounts [gi-sunki].
Sunki has no salt, and the GI sets the finished pH at about 3.7–4.3 [gi-sunki]. In a study, an accidental insufficient pH drop during fermentation seriously reduced the product's quality [tomita2024]. With no salt, acid is the main guard against Clostridium botulinum. Snyder et al. say a vegetable ferment that fails to reach below pH 4.6 should be discarded, and that in low-salt ferments the pH can rise back above 4.6 [snyder2020]. CDC says the toxin cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so taste is no test of safety [cdc-prev].
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
A linked verse from a Bashō-school gathering, around 1688, names "Kiso no sunki", and the GI and MAFF conclude from it that sunki is at least 300 years old [gi-sunki, maff-sunki]. In 1740 an Owari domain samurai, Mimura (三村森軒), wrote that in Kiso villages "suguki" was daikon greens boiled and kept in tubs as food until the next summer; the GI reads this as sunki, since no salt is used [gi-sunki]. A 1850 menu from Ōtaki village lists sunki. In 1983 Nagano designated sunki pickling a selected intangible folk cultural property, and sunki was registered as a GI on 26 May 2017 [gi-sunki].
