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Soy and legumes from China and Taiwan
Fresh tofu is soaked for minutes to hours in a brine of vegetables and other ingredients that has fermented for months to years, and takes on its strong smell. It is then deep-fried, steamed or stewed and served with a chilli or garlic dip.
| Fresh white tofu | In Changsha, blocks 5 × 5 cm and 1 cm thick, made from plump, moist northeastern soybeans[ich1522] |
| Fermented brine | Shanghai: amaranth and spices fermented for nearly a year. Changsha: fresh winter bamboo shoots, shiitake, perilla and Liuyang douchi simmered in winter water, with qu liquor added[tian2023st][ich1522] |
| Tea-seed oil, for frying | The Changsha choice[ich1522] |
| Chilli and garlic dipto taste | [ich1522] |
| Starter | The tofu is soaked in a vegetable brine that has fermented naturally for months to years. |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months
What changes: Vegetables ferment for a year or more into a pungent brine
The Changsha brine is best made in winter. Output: stinky brine.
Microbes at work in this step
microorganisms in the vegetable mix make proteases and lipases whose products give the smell
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Fresh tofu is soaked for minutes to hours in a brine of vegetables and other ingredients that has fermented for months to years, and takes on its strong smell. It is then deep-fried, steamed or stewed and served with a chilli or garlic dip. Made in 5 steps over 12 months. The longest step, make and keep the brine, takes at least 12 months (China national intangible cultural heritage l…). Enterococcus, Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and Leuconostoc, reported as the core microbes of the brine does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 12 monthsReported[ich1522] | Make and keep the brine |
|---|
Stinky tofu is plain tofu flavoured by soaking in an old fermented brine, so the tofu itself ferments only briefly. Furu and hairy tofu, by contrast, grow mould on the tofu.
Stinky tofu was the food in 24 of the 80 foodborne botulism outbreaks recorded in China from 2004 to 2020, and the paper ties home-prepared traditional stinky tofu to households in Xinjiang. Of the 24, 12 were attributed to improper processing and 9 to improper storage [li2022bot]. The paper says related home soybean ferments, kept warm in airtight containers, likely let the toxin form. CDC says the toxin cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so the strong smell tells you nothing about safety, and it says not to eat food if you do not know whether it was safely fermented [cdc-prev].
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum in home-made traditional stinky tofu (24 of 80 botulism outbreaks in China, 2004–2020).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Changsha's Huogongdian stinky tofu was first made by a tofu-making Jiang family of Xiangyin in the Tongzhi era of the Qing dynasty; a Jiang descendant began selling it at Huogongdian in 1908.
