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Soy and legumes from Beijing

Chou furu / qingfang (grey stinky fermented tofu; Wangzhihe, Beijing)臭腐乳

Qingfang is grey sufu, the strong-smelling kind of furu. Tofu cubes grow a coat of mould, are salted, then ripen for weeks in a brine mixed with the yellow whey left from tofu making. The cubes soften, and the whey brine carries sulphur compounds that give the strong smell. By a legend, Wangzhihe in Beijing began in 1669.

Fully documentedSoy and legumes31 days – 44 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceNo published Wangzhihe recipe was found. The values below come from two studies of grey sufu from other makers, one in Shaoxing (Zhao 2023) and one from Changchun (Tian 2023).
Tofu, cut into cubes[zhao2023]
Mould cultureActinomucor in Shaoxing; Mucor with Rhizopus microsporus in a northeast Chinese study[zhao2023][tian2023]
Salt20 % salt waterThe mould-coated cubes were soaked in it in one study[tian2023]
Brine mixed with tofu yellow serofluidThe soy whey left over from making tofu[tian2023]
Startermould sprayed on the tofu (Actinomucor in the Shaoxing study; Mucor with Rhizopus microsporus in the Changchun study); in the Changchun study one batch of ripening brine was left to ferment spontaneously and another was given Leuconostoc mesenteroides F24 (Tian 2023)

Total time across the recorded steps: 31 days – 44 days

Start
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pH 5.4

What changes: Tofu is cut into cubes

Step 1 of 4
Make tofu and cut it into cubes
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
pH 5.4
Measured
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts

Output: tofu cubes.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Qingfang is grey sufu, the strong-smelling kind of furu. Tofu cubes grow a coat of mould, are salted, then ripen for weeks in a brine mixed with the yellow whey left from tofu making. The cubes soften, and the whey brine carries sulphur compounds that give the strong smell. By a legend, Wangzhihe in Beijing began in 1669. Made in 4 steps over 31 days – 44 days. The longest step, ripen in brine with tofu whey, takes 28–35 days (Tian M 2023) and runs at 25–28 °C (Zhao L 2023). Salt is 20 % (Tian M 2023). Actinomucor and Mucor sp. and Rhizopus microsporus do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step28–35 daysReported[tian2023][zhao2023]Ripen in brine with tofu whey
Temperature25–28 °CReported[zhao2023][tian2023]Ripen in brine with tofu whey
Salt20 %Reported[tian2023]Salt the mouldy cubes
AciditypH 6.3Measured[zhao2023]Ripen in brine with tofu whey

What makes this one different

Other furu ripen in dressings of alcohol, salt and added flavourings (Han 2004). In the Changchun study qingfang was ripened in brine mixed with tofu yellow serofluid, the soy whey left from making tofu, and that brine carries sulphur compounds with a strong flavour (Tian 2023).

Related ferments

Variants

  • Shaoxing grey sufuActinomucor mould, 2 days of salting and 35 days of ripening at 25 °C.

Safety

Biogenic amines build up during ripening. In one Shaoxing study the total reached 396.80 mg/kg after 35 days, mostly tyramine at 297.78 mg/kg (Zhao 2023).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

By one legend a failed scholar from Anhui, Wang Zhihe, came to Beijing for the imperial exam in 1669, sold tofu to live, and found that salted leftover tofu went mouldy and stinking but tasted good (Chinese Wikipedia, legend only). A second account, from the Wuqing county gazetteer, makes him a poor tofu seller from Wuqing, now in Tianjin. The same page dates the national heritage listing of Wangzhihe's fermented tofu craft to 2008.

  1. [zhao2023] Zhao L., Liu Y., Xu Q. et al. 2023, Microbial community succession and its correlation with quality characteristics during gray sufu fermentation, Foods 12(14):2767paper
  2. [tian2023] Tian M., Lin K., Yang L., Jiang B., Zhang B., Zhu X., Ren D., Yu H. 2023, Characterization of key aroma compounds in gray sufu fermented using Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. mesenteroides F24 as a starter culture, Food Chemistry X 20:100881paper
  3. [han2004] Han B.-Z., Kuijpers A.F.A., Thanh N.V., Nout M.J.R. 2004, Mucoraceous moulds involved in the commercial fermentation of Sufu Pehtze, Antonie van Leeuwenhoek 85:253–257, doi:10.1023/B:ANTO.0000020157.72415.b9paper
  4. [koseki2026] Koseki K., Yasuda S., Bito T., Watanabe F. 2026, Quantification of total vitamin B12 and identification of vitamin B12 compounds in commercial fermented tofu (furu) products, Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry (abstract)paper
  5. [zhwiki] Chinese Wikipedia, 王致和 (legend and heritage listing only)wiki