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Fruit from Spain

Spanish-style (Sevillian) green olivesaceitunas estilo sevillano

Green olives are soaked in lye until it reaches two-thirds of the way into the flesh, washed, and put into salt brine. Lactic bacteria, mainly Lactiplantibacillus pentosus, then sour them over two to three months.

Fully documentedFruit14 days – 26 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceAn industrial process with no fixed batch size; the sources give concentrations, not amounts. The factories in the Seville study ferment about 10 tonnes of olives in 5,500–6,000 litres of brine per fermenter.
Green olives, picked full-size before they colourManzanilla, Hojiblanca and Gordal are the main varieties[campus2018][ioc2004]
Lye (sodium hydroxide solution)2–3.5 % NaOHStronger or weaker with ripeness, temperature, variety and water quality[ioc-web]
Water, to wash out the lye[campus2018]
Salt brine10–12 % NaCl[lucena2014]
Starterspontaneous; no starter culture was used in the Seville factories studied, though interest in selected starter cultures is increasing in industrial production

Total time across the recorded steps: 14 days – 26 days

Start
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What changes: Starting material: firm green olives picked before they colour

Step 1 of 7
Pick the green olives
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
L. pentosus
Lactic acid bacteria

Output: sound green olives of full size.

Flavour
very bitter (oleuropein)
Texture
firm
Colour
green to straw yellow

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Green olives are soaked in lye until it reaches two-thirds of the way into the flesh, washed, and put into salt brine. Lactic bacteria, mainly Lactiplantibacillus pentosus, then sour them over two to three months. Made in 7 steps over 14 days – 26 days. The longest step, ferment in the brine, takes 13–25 days (Lucena-Padrós H 2014). Salt is 10–12 % → 5.88 % (Lucena-Padrós H 2014). Lactiplantibacillus pentosus and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, the name used in older reports for the same group do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step13–25 daysReported[lucena2014]Ferment in the brine
Salt10–12 % → 5.88 %Reported[lucena2014]Cover with brine
AciditypH up to 4Set[ioc2004][lucena2014]Finish and hold in brine

What makes this one different

Spanish style is the main table-olive method that uses lye first. The lye removes the bitterness in hours, so a fast lactic fermentation follows and is done in two to three months. Greek natural olives skip the lye and lose their bitterness slowly in brine over many months.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Picholine (American) styleLye of 3–3.5 °Bé for 8–72 h until it reaches three-quarters of the flesh, then 5–6 % and 7 % brines acidified with citric acid to pH 4.5; ready in 8–10 days with no fermentation.
  • Stuffed olivesPitted after fermenting and filled with pimiento, anchovy or other stuffings.

Safety

Under the International Olive Council trade standard, treated olives that are kept by their own salt and acid (not pasteurised or chilled) need a brine of at least 5 % salt, pH 4.0 or lower and at least 0.5 % lactic acid. A pH below 4.6 holds back Clostridium botulinum in fermented vegetables, and Snyder et al. say a ferment that fails to reach it, or whose pH stops falling, should be discarded. So the pH has to be measured, not guessed. The unfermented Picholine style is acidified only to pH 4.5, above the IOC limit for the packing brine of treated olives (4.0, or 4.3 if pasteurised), so no source read here shows that a pH 4.5 brine alone keeps olives safe unchilled. Lye (sodium hydroxide) burns skin and eyes, and the solution heats up as the lye dissolves. Protect skin and eyes, do not touch the olives with bare hands until they are washed, and wash them well before they go into brine.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Romero, García, Medina and Brenes (2019) write that the alkaline treatment of olives followed by lactic fermentation gave rise to Spanish-style green olives, and that industrial-scale production began at the end of the 19th century near Seville [romero2019].

  1. [ioc2004] International Olive Oil Council 2004, Trade standard applying to table olives, COI/OT/NC no. 1 (section 3.1.2.1, packing brine)spec
  2. [ioc-web] International Olive Council, Table olives (processing methods)gov
  3. [lucena2014] Lucena-Padrós H., Caballero-Guerrero B., Maldonado-Barragán A. and Ruiz-Barba J.L. 2014, Microbial diversity and dynamics of Spanish-style green table-olive fermentations in large manufacturing companies through culture-dependent techniques, Food Microbiology 42, 154–165paper
  4. [campus2018] Campus M., Değirmencioğlu N. and Comunian R. 2018, Technologies and trends to improve table olive quality and safety, Frontiers in Microbiology 9, 617paper
  5. [fao134] Battcock M. and Azam-Ali S. 1998, Fermented fruits and vegetables, a global perspective, FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin 134, section 6.2.4 Green olivesgov
  6. [snyder2020] Snyder A., Breidt F., Andress E.L. and Ingham B.H. 2020, Manufacture of traditionally fermented vegetable products, best practice for small businesses and retail food establishments, Food Protection Trends 40(4), 251–263paper
  7. [romero2019] Romero C., García P., Medina E. and Brenes M. 2019, The PDO and PGI table olives of Spain, European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology 121(3), doi:10.1002/ejlt.201800136 (accepted manuscript)paper
  8. [niosh-naoh] US National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (CDC), Pocket Guide to Chemical Hazards, sodium hydroxidegov