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Fruit from Greece, Turkey, eastern Mediterranean

Greek-style natural black olives

Ripe black olives go straight into strong salt brine with no lye. Yeasts and lactic bacteria ferment them for six months to a year while the bitter oleuropein slowly leaves the fruit, and they are packed in fresh brine, often with vinegar.

Fully documentedFruit6.1 months – 12 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceIndustrial and household practice with no fixed batch size; the IOC gives brine strengths, not amounts. One trial fermented 8 kg of Kalamata olives in 4 litres of 7 % brine (Bonatsou et al.).
Fully ripe black olives, picked by handConservolea and Kalamata in Greece, Gemlik in Türkiye[ioc-web][bonatsou2018]
Brine8–10 % saltTopped back up to 8–10 % as the salt falls during fermentation[ioc-web][bonatsou2018]
Vinegar at the start0.5 % (v/v), optionalUsed by many Kalamata processors to acidify the brine at the onset[bonatsou2018]
Vinegar at packingAbout 25 % of the brine volume, optional[ioc-web]
Olive oil on top of the packA thin layer, optional[ioc-web]
Starterspontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 6.1 months – 12 months

Start
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What changes: Starting material: fully ripe black olives, picked by hand

Step 1 of 6
Pick fully ripe olives by hand
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Yeasts
Lactic acid bacteria
Candida molendinolei
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Saccharomyces

Output: ripe olives, picked before they are over-ripe or touched by frost.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
reddish black to violet black

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Ripe black olives go straight into strong salt brine with no lye. Yeasts and lactic bacteria ferment them for six months to a year while the bitter oleuropein slowly leaves the fruit, and they are packed in fresh brine, often with vinegar. Made in 6 steps over 6.1 months – 12 months. The longest step, ferment slowly for months, takes 6.1–12 months (Bonatsou S 2018). Salt is 8–10 % (International Olive Council). Yeasts Candida boidinii, Candida molendinolei and Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Yeasts of the genera Pichia, Ogataea and Saccharomyces do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step6.1–12 monthsReported[bonatsou2018][kazou2020]Ferment slowly for months
Salt8–10 %Reported[ioc-web][bonatsou2018]Put straight into brine, with no lye
AciditypH up to 4.3Set[ioc2004]Pack in fresh brine

What makes this one different

No lye is used, so the bitterness is reduced slowly in the brine, and the ferment runs for months. Spanish-style green olives are lye-treated first and then fermented in brine.

Related ferments

Variants

  • KalamataElongated Kalamata olives, often slit and packed with vinegar and oil.
  • Dry-salted wrinkled olivesOver-ripe Megaritiki olives layered in baskets with dry salt equal to about 15 % of their weight; they wrinkle like raisins and taste salty, not bitter. The IOC standard asks at least 10 % salt for shrivelled olives.
  • Acidified start0.5 % vinegar or 0.1 % lactic acid added to the brine at the start; the final pH ends about the same.

Safety

Under the International Olive Council trade standard, natural olives kept by their own salt and acid need a brine of at least 6 % salt, pH 4.3 or lower and at least 0.3 % lactic acid. A pH below 4.6 holds back Clostridium botulinum in fermented vegetables (Snyder et al.). Enterobacteriaceae that linger after a slow start can cause gas pockets and splits in the fruit (Bonatsou et al.).

Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum, held back once the pH is below 4.6.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Greece has a long tradition of producing natural black olives in brine, which are known internationally as Greek-style olives in brine and are made mainly from the Conservolea and Kalamata varieties (Kazou et al. 2020). By the Greek table olive association's 2017 figures the sector involved about 62,000 farmers and more than 100 companies, and processed more than 200,000 tonnes a year, 85 % of it exported (Bonatsou et al. 2018, citing the Greek table olive association). The International Olive Council issued its trade standard for table olives, which sets the brine limits for natural olives, in 2004. Kalamata processors now increasingly acidify the brine at the start with vinegar or lactic acid (Bonatsou et al. 2018).

  1. [ioc2004] International Olive Oil Council 2004, Trade standard applying to table olives, COI/OT/NC no. 1 (section 3.1.2.1, packing brine)spec
  2. [ioc-web] International Olive Council, Table olives (black olives in brine and in dry salt)gov
  3. [bonatsou2018] Bonatsou S., Paramithiotis S. and Panagou E.Z. 2018, Evolution of yeast consortia during the fermentation of Kalamata natural black olives upon two initial acidification treatments, Frontiers in Microbiology 8, 2673paper
  4. [kazou2020] Kazou M., Tzamourani A., Panagou E.Z. and Tsakalidou E. 2020, Unraveling the microbiota of natural black cv. Kalamata fermented olives through 16S and ITS metataxonomic analysis, Microorganisms 8(5), 672paper
  5. [snyder2020] Snyder A., Breidt F., Andress E.L. and Ingham B.H. 2020, Manufacture of traditionally fermented vegetable products, best practice for small businesses and retail food establishments, Food Protection Trends 40(4), 251–263paper