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Alcoholic drinks from Japan
Sōbōshu is the collective name for the sake brewed commercially by the great temples of the Kinki region from the mid-15th century, at its peak in the 16th. Temple diaries record a starter followed by two or three further additions of steamed rice, koji and water, a mash of 40–50 days, repeated heating of the finished sake, and from 1576 white rice for both koji and mash (morohaku). It is a historical category, not one recipe.
| Steamed rice, added in stages | Goshu no nikki puts the steamed rice, koji and water in together at each of two additions; Tamon-in nikki records two or three additions[nta-sake] |
| Rice koji | Goshu no nikki gives a koji ratio of 37.5 %; Amano-zake about 26 %[nta-sake] |
| Water | Goshu no nikki gives a water ratio of 75 %[nta-sake] |
| Raw white rice with one tenth its weight of cooked rice | Bodaisen method only; soaked in water to sour it before brewing[nta-sake] |
| Brown rice | Amano-zake, from Kongō-ji, used brown rice; morohaku sake used white rice for both koji and steamed rice[nta-sake] |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter (rice koji); the warm-season Bodaisen method first soured the water with lactic acid bacteria |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.2 months – 3 months
What changes: Koji, steamed rice and water go into a jar as the first, starter addition
In the winter methods of Goshu no nikki and Amano-zake the first addition, which serves as a starter, had no lactic souring.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sōbōshu is the collective name for the sake brewed commercially by the great temples of the Kinki region from the mid-15th century, at its peak in the 16th. Temple diaries record a starter followed by two or three further additions of steamed rice, koji and water, a mash of 40–50 days, repeated heating of the finished sake, and from 1576 white rice for both koji and mash (morohaku). It is a historical category, not one recipe. Made in 5 steps over 2.2 months – 3 months. The longest step, ferment and press, takes 40–50 days (National Tax Agency of Japan 2021). Koji mould and Yeasts, favoured by the acid soaking water in the Bodaisen method do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 40–50 daysReported[nta-sake] | Ferment and press |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 40–60 °CReported[kanai2024] | Heat the sake (hi-ire) |
Sōbōshu is not one recipe but the name for medieval temple sake. Temple records show staged additions, lactic souring of the starter water in the Bodaisen method, heating of the finished sake and morohaku white-rice brewing, which passed to the town brewers of Nara.
Two safeguards appear in the temple records. The Tamon-in diary notes the sake was heated more than once, which the Japanese tax agency reads as heat sterilisation. In the warm-season Bodaisen method the soaking water was soured by lactic acid bacteria first, and the soured water was then used for brewing. Nara Prefecture says sterilisation with lactic-acid bacilli, staged mashing and polished rice produced sterilised, safe sake. It says separately that mould grows easily in summer, when the temple's Bodai-moto mash still made a summer sake possible. Goshu no nikki, a Muromachi manual that also records the Bodaisen method, names two heating temperatures, given at the heating step.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Temple brewing began as sacred sake for the shrines in temple grounds and became commercial from the mid-15th century, at its height in the 16th. Mashes were made in 2–3 koku jars; a tub of 10 koku (1.8 kL) is first recorded in 1582. Temple sake declined when Oda Nobunaga broke the power of the temples [nta-sake].
