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Alcoholic drinks from Japan

Taruzake (cedar-cask sake)樽酒

Taruzake is finished sake kept for a while in a cask of Japanese cedar (sugi), which gives it a woody cedar aroma and a faint yellow tint. Under Japan's labelling standard the name may be used only for sake stored in a wooden cask that has taken on its scent. In a 2006 study, cedar compounds in the sake rose most in the first week of a 14-day storage.

Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks2.2 days – 14 daysFamily: Sake (base flow: junmai, sokujo starter)

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceOne lab batch from a 2006 study by Yamaguchi University and the National Research Institute of Brewing, in two kinds of 18-litre cedar cask. Breweries use their own sake and cask sizes.
Honjozo sake (15.5 % alcohol in the study)18 L[orihara2006]
Japanese cedar cask, of red heartwood (akami) or of wood from the sapwood-heartwood border (kōtsuki)18 L cask (one to)[orihara2006]
Startersake starter (shubo); taruzake itself is a storage style

Total time across the recorded steps: 2.2 days – 14 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
71–72 °C

What changes: Hot water fills the new cedar cask, then cold water soaks it overnight

Step 1 of 4
Scald and soak the new cedar cask
Time
5 h
Reported
Temperature
71–72 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: clean, swollen cask.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Taruzake is finished sake kept for a while in a cask of Japanese cedar (sugi), which gives it a woody cedar aroma and a faint yellow tint. Under Japan's labelling standard the name may be used only for sake stored in a wooden cask that has taken on its scent. In a 2006 study, cedar compounds in the sake rose most in the first week of a 14-day storage. Made in 4 steps over 2.2 days – 14 days. The longest step, store until the cedar scent comes through, takes 2–14 days (Orihara Y 2006) and runs at 15 °C (Orihara Y 2006). Koji mould (Aspergillus oryzae) and sake yeast, which make the sake before it reaches the cask does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step2–14 daysReported[orihara2006]Store until the cedar scent comes through
Temperature15 °CReported[orihara2006]Store until the cedar scent comes through

What makes this one different

Taruzake is ordinary finished sake given a short rest in a Japanese cedar cask. The wood adds sesquiterpenes and a little colour but leaves the sugars and most fruity esters alone, unlike oak ageing of whisky, where sugars also rise.

Related ferments

Safety

The sake that goes into the cask is finished sake, which the NRIB guide says most sake has been pasteurised at 60–65 °C before storing. The guide also says sake discolours, and gains unwanted aroma and bitterness, if it is kept warm or in light for a long time. In the 2006 study the new casks were scalded and soaked before use.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Until the early 20th century, sake was normally shipped in casks and the retailer decanted it into earthenware for sale. Today nearly all sake is bottled, but some pubs and soba restaurants still serve cask sake, and casks are opened at ceremonies (NRIB guide).

  1. [orihara2006] Orihara Y., Wake H., Utsunomiya H., Aoshima H. 2006, 樽酒の成分と生理活性への貯蔵期間の影響 (Components of taru-sake and their physiological activity), Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 101(5):349–356; full text in the Yamaguchi University repositorypaper
  2. [nta-hyoji] National Tax Agency 1989 (as amended), 清酒の製法品質表示基準 (Labelling standard for the manufacturing method and quality of sake), Notice No. 8, item 5(8) 樽酒spec
  3. [nrib2011] Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association and National Research Institute of Brewing 2011, A Comprehensive Guide to Japanese Sake, 1st ed. (sections 3.3.5 and 4, glossary)gov