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Cereals and bread from Japan

Sakadane (sake-starter) bread酒種

A bread leaven made the way a sake brewery makes its yeast starter. Raw and cooked rice, rice koji and water are kept at 25 °C until lactic acid bacteria sour them and wild yeasts take over, and the culture is built up through three more one-day stages before it raises a sweet bread dough.

Fully documentedCereals and bread2 days – 4 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe 1996 paper gives its starter proportions in a table that could not be read from the scan; no amounts are given here.
Raw rice, washed and drained[kawai1996]
Rice koji[kawai1996]
Cooked rice[kawai1996]
Water[kawai1996]
Wheat flour, sugar and other dough ingredientsIn the 1996 dough tests the sakadane went in with enough water to make 62% of the flour weight[kawai1996]
Starterother: rice and koji culture built up in stages (kaketsugi, 掛け継ぎ), like a kimoto sake starter

Total time across the recorded steps: 2 days – 4 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
shapes, not to countLactic acid bacteriaYeasts25 °CpH 5.8 → 4StarchSugarAlcoholCO₂

What changes: Lactic bacteria sour the rice and koji mash and clear the way for yeast

Step 1 of 4
Make the first starter (ichiban-dane)
Time
24 h – 3 days
Reported
Temperature
25 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
pH 5.8 → 4
Measured
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts
Moulds
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

lactic acid bacteria reach about 10^10 per ml on day 1 and their acid clears out other bacteria and weak wild yeasts

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

A bread leaven made the way a sake brewery makes its yeast starter. Raw and cooked rice, rice koji and water are kept at 25 °C until lactic acid bacteria sour them and wild yeasts take over, and the culture is built up through three more one-day stages before it raises a sweet bread dough. Made in 4 steps over 2 days – 4 days. The longest step, make the first starter (ichiban-dane), takes 24 h – 3 days (Kawai H. (河合弘康) 1996) and runs at 25 °C (Kawai H. (河合弘康) 1996). Wild fermentative yeasts from the rice and koji, which take over by the third and fourth stages and Lactic acid bacteria, early only do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step24 h – 3 daysReported[kawai1996]Make the first starter (ichiban-dane)
Temperature25 °CReported[kawai1996]Make the first starter (ichiban-dane)
AciditypH 3.6Measured[kawai1996]Build up through the second, third and fourth starters

What makes this one different

The leaven is a sake-style rice and koji culture, soured first by lactic bacteria as in a kimoto sake starter, not a flour sourdough or hop yeast.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Quick sakadane (sokujō style)Lactic acid and a pure sake yeast (Kyokai No. 7) are added at the start, as in a sokujō sake starter, for a steadier leaven.
  • The old household methodWashed raw rice in a small pot with a rice ball buried in it, kept at about 30 °C until the rice foams in 2–3 days; the strained liquid seeds the leaven.
  • Lactic-acid and sake-yeast sakadaneCultured at 15–20 °C for 3–5 days with lactic acid and sake yeast as the seed culture; this gave a strong and stable dough fermentative activity in the Nara study.

Safety

The early lactic acid drops the pH to about 4 and suppresses other bacteria. Kept at 4 °C the fourth starter still had 70–80% of its leavening power after 5 days.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Kimuraya, founded in 1869 as Bun'eidō by Kimura Yasubei, says he devised and sold the sakadane anpan in Meiji 7 (1874), with the idea of sake manju. On 4 April 1875 (Meiji 8) Kimuraya offered the cherry-blossom sakadane anpan to Emperor Meiji through Yamaoka Tesshū. The company says keepers of the yeast have passed the sakadane down for over 150 years. Kawai Hiroyasu of Nara Women's University studied sakadane in 1988–1989, and a 1983 note in the brewing society's journal likened a slightly sour bread to the mizumoto of sake brewing.

  1. [kaken1989] KAWAI Hiroyasu (Nara Women's University) 1988–1989, Studies on the Fermentative and Microbial Properties of Sakadane, KAKENHI project 63580056 (research abstract), KAKEN databasearchive
  2. [kimuraya] 株式会社木村屋總本店, 沿革 (company history), 酒種あんぱん and 4月4日はあんぱんの日 pages, Kimuraya Sohontenother
  3. [kawai1996] Kawai H. (河合弘康) 1996, 日本のパン種—酒種—の起源とその発酵特性 (Dough fermentative properties of sakadane, a Japanese traditional leavening agent for bread-making), Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan 91(5):311–317paper
  4. [note1983] 水翫と酒種パン (Mizumoto and sakadane bread), Journal of the Society of Brewing, Japan 78(12):925–927, 1983paper