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Cheese from Dali, Yunnan, China
Cow milk is set with soured whey from an earlier batch (in one study, with a boiled fruit acid water instead, heated to 70 °C until it solidified), and the curd is kneaded and stretched by hand into a thin sheet. The sheet is wound on a bamboo stick and air-dried for about three days into a brittle "milk fan". Acid from the fermented whey, not rennet, sets the curd.
| Cow milk | Milk of the local Dengchuan cattle is rich in fat and protein, which the study calls optimal for rushan[xue2018] |
| Acid whey | Whey from the previous batch, left to ferment; it is the starter and the coagulant[liu2009][tang2026] |
| Acid water1 part to 2 parts milk (by volume) | In one controlled study, made by boiling Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis, which the paper calls papaya) with water, 1:3 by weight, for half an hour, in place of whey[xue2018] |
| Starter | acid whey from the previous batch (backslopping), dominated by Lactobacillus helveticus |
Total time across the recorded steps: 17 days
What changes: Whey from the last batch ferments, and its pH falls from about 5 to 3.5
Whey is up to 90 % of the milk volume, so each batch leaves plenty for the next. Output: acid whey (starter and coagulant).
Microbes at work in this step
lactic bacteria multiply first and make the acid; acid-tolerant yeasts follow
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cow milk is set with soured whey from an earlier batch (in one study, with a boiled fruit acid water instead, heated to 70 °C until it solidified), and the curd is kneaded and stretched by hand into a thin sheet. The sheet is wound on a bamboo stick and air-dried for about three days into a brittle "milk fan". Acid from the fermented whey, not rennet, sets the curd. Made in 4 steps over 17 days. The longest step, let the whey ferment into acid whey, takes 14 days (Tang R 2026). Lactobacillus helveticus, the dominant lactic bacterium in acid whey and Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens and L. helveticus, the two most abundant lactobacilli; with Lactococcus and Streptococcus the dominant genera in rushan do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 14 daysMeasured[tang2026] | Let the whey ferment into acid whey |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 70 °CReported[xue2018] | Heat milk with the acid until it curdles |
| Acidity | pH at least 5Reported[tang2026] | Heat milk with the acid until it curdles |
Rushan is set by fermented whey and heat, not rennet, then stretched by hand like a pasta filata and dried as thin sheets.
Staphylococcus aureus was found in 5 of 62 rushan samples bought in Yunnan (8.06 %), by culture; the survey did not test the cheese for toxin. The authors note that staphylococcal enterotoxins stay active after pasteurisation. In the Xue et al. 2018 batches, made with UHT milk, the curd was heated to 70 °C and the sheets were air-dried for about three days.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus, found in 5 of 62 rushan samples (8.06 %).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Xue et al. (2018) call rushan an essential part of Bai culture and say the Bai people, living mostly in Yunnan, have produced and eaten it for centuries. Jiang et al. (2021) say its production still follows backslopping, and Tang et al. (2026) say the whey from the previous batch is used as a natural coagulant.
