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Starters and koji from Roman Italy

Roman millet-and-must leaven (Pliny)fermentum (Latin)

Pliny names millet as the main material for leaven. Kneaded with fresh grape must at the vintage, it keeps for a whole year by his account. This entry is a text-only reconstruction; Pliny gives no amounts, and no modern test of the method was found.

Fully documentedStarters and koji

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedPliny gives no amounts or proportions for this leaven.
Millet[lc-pliny][bostock-riley]
Grape mustFresh juice from the vintage[lc-pliny][bostock-riley]
Start
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What changes: Millet is kneaded with fresh grape must at vintage time

Step 1 of 2
Knead millet with must at the vintage
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Pliny says this kind can only be made at vintage time, when must is to hand. Output: millet-must leaven.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Pliny names millet as the main material for leaven. Kneaded with fresh grape must at the vintage, it keeps for a whole year by his account. This entry is a text-only reconstruction; Pliny gives no amounts, and no modern test of the method was found.

What makes this one different

Unlike the barley-cake leaven, which can be made in any season, the millet and bran leavens depend on fresh must, so they are made only at the vintage.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Bran-and-must cakesFine wheat bran steeped in white must and dried as small cakes (separate entry).

Safety

Moulds can grow on cereals and dried foods kept in storage, often in warm, damp conditions, and some of them make mycotoxins, which are toxic compounds listed by the WHO as a food-safety hazard. Pliny gives no warning for this leaven, and this entry is history, not a tested method [who2023].

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Pliny, Natural History 18.26 (§ 102), c. 77 CE.

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
Microbes
No study we found names its microbes.
Process times
The sources we found give no figure for how long any of its steps take.
Temperature, salt and pH
The sources we found give no temperature, salt or pH figure for any of its steps.
  1. [lc-pliny] Pliny the Elder, Naturalis Historia (c. 77 CE), book 18, ch. 26 (§§ 102–104), Latin text of Mayhoff's Teubner edition as keyed by Bill Thayer, LacusCurtius, read 2026-10archive
  2. [bostock-riley] Pliny the Elder, The Natural History, translated by J. Bostock and H.T. Riley (1856), vol. 4, book 18, ch. 26 (The various kinds of leaven), Project Gutenberg ebook 61113book
  3. [who2023] World Health Organization, Mycotoxins, fact sheet (general hazard of mycotoxins in cereals and other stored foods; not about this leaven itself), read 2026-11gov