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Fermented milk from North-western Iran
Goat, ewe or cow milk is made into yoghurt, thinned to doogh and churned for butter. The butter is salted and ripened for 2–6 months, then melted and browned into a butter oil.
| Raw whole cow or ewe milk | Goat milk is also used traditionally[faraji2023] |
| Starting culture for the yoghurt | [faraji2023] |
| Hot water, to thin it to doogh1:1 by volume with the yoghurt | [faraji2023] |
| Dry salt10 % w/w of the butter, then a full coat | [faraji2023] |
| Starter | starting culture added to the heated milk to make yoghurt (in the study) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 6 months
What changes: The milk is made into yoghurt (mast)
Output: mast.
Microbes at work in this step
yoghurt bacteria sour the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Goat, ewe or cow milk is made into yoghurt, thinned to doogh and churned for butter. The butter is salted and ripened for 2–6 months, then melted and browned into a butter oil. Made in 4 steps over 2 months – 6 months. The longest step, wash, salt and ripen in glazed pots, takes 2–6 months (Faraji Sarabmirza R. et al. 2023) and runs at 16–20 °C (Faraji Sarabmirza R. et al. 2023). Salt is 10 % (Faraji Sarabmirza R. et al. 2023). Starting culture does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2–6 monthsReported[faraji2023] | Wash, salt and ripen in glazed pots |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 16–20 °CMeasured[faraji2023] | Wash, salt and ripen in glazed pots |
| Salt | 10 %Reported[faraji2023] | Wash, salt and ripen in glazed pots |
| Acidity | pH 4.6–4.7Measured[faraji2023] | Make yoghurt (mast) |
Kurdish roghan is made from butter churned from doogh, and the salted butter is ripened for 2–6 months (4 months in the study) before it is melted. FAO's general clarified-butter entry goes from churned butter straight to boiling, with no ripening step.
In the study the butter was dry-salted at 10 % w/w and then covered with a continuous salt coat for 4 months at 18 ± 2 °C. The finished oils had free fatty acids of 0.39–0.41 g oleic acid/100 g and peroxide values of 1.32–1.35 meq O2/kg. The paper calls its peroxide values much lower than a Turkish study's, and its conclusion calls its free fatty acid and peroxide values much higher than previous reports, so it gives no clear verdict.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Faraji Sarabmirza et al. (2023), citing Batmanglij (1999), say it has been made since the Achaemenid era.
