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Fermented milk from Maghreb

Smenسمن

Raw milk sours on its own for a day or two, is churned into butter, and the washed butter is salted and packed into a jar to mature for months or years. Lactic bacteria and yeasts slowly turn it into a pungent, rancid-smelling cooking fat.

Fully documentedFermented milk39 days

Recipe

Smen, a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Lucyin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Amounts from a sourceOne household batch from Sétif, Algeria, followed from milk to six-month smen by Boussekine and colleagues; the salt range is the general Algerian practice they report.
Raw cow milk30 LSoured on its own into raib; in the followed batch it gave about 750 g of butter[boussekine2022]
Salt50–80 g per kg of butterAbout 6 % (two tablespoons) in the followed batch[boussekine2022]
Coarse semolina and herbsOptionalIn the heat-treated version[boussekine2022]
Starterspontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 39 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
shapes, not to countLactococcusS. thermophiluspH 6.7 → 4.2Milk sugarLactic acid

What changes: Raw milk left at room temperature sours and sets into raib

Step 1 of 4
Let the raw milk sour into raib
Time
2 days
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
pH 6.7 → 4.2
Measured
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactococcus
S. thermophilus
Lactobacilli
Yeasts

Output: raib (soured, set milk).

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Lactococcus and Streptococcus thermophilus sour the milk.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Raw milk sours on its own for a day or two, is churned into butter, and the washed butter is salted and packed into a jar to mature for months or years. Lactic bacteria and yeasts slowly turn it into a pungent, rancid-smelling cooking fat. Made in 4 steps over 39 days. The longest step, pack into a jar and mature, takes at least 30 days (Boussekine R 2022) and runs at 13–15 °C (Boussekine R 2022). Salt is 5–8 % (Boussekine R 2022). Lactococcus lactis, and to a lesser extent Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus helveticus and Enterococcus faecium, E. durans and lactobacilli (Lentilactobacillus parabuchneri, Lacticaseibacillus paracasei, L. rhamnosus, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum) isolated from smen do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 30 daysMeasured[boussekine2022]Pack into a jar and mature
Temperature13–15 °CReported[boussekine2022]Pack into a jar and mature
Salt5–8 %Reported[boussekine2022]Wash and salt the butter
AciditypH 4.5 → 4Measured[boussekine2022]Pack into a jar and mature

What makes this one different

Smen is matured butter, not clarified butter. Fresh salted butter from soured milk is left to ripen for months, so microbes and enzymes break down the fat, while ghee and samneh are boiled dry instead.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Heat-treated smen (Algeria)The butter is heated, then salt, coarse semolina and herbs are added before maturing.
  • Moroccan smen with herbsClarified butter flavoured with rosemary and thyme before storage (FAO).
  • Shmen (camel milk, Sahara)Camel milk sours 12–24 h at 25–30 °C in an unwashed goatskin, is churned at dawn by swinging the inflated skin, and the butter is melted at 100–120 °C for 30 min with crushed dates or roasted ram horn to clarify it (FAO).

Safety

Fifteen Algerian household smens met all tested hygiene criteria, with coagulase-positive staphylococci below 2 log10 CFU/g and no Salmonella. The authors credit the souring, its acid and the free fatty acids. Moisture was at most 19.9 %, salt ranged from 0.1 to 7.4 %, and pH from 3.1 to 5.2, generally below 4 but higher in smen under 3 months old. Those results cover those samples, not every batch. In the followed batch the raw milk started with coliforms near 6 log per mL; they fell below detection by one month of maturing. The CDC says raw-milk products can expose people to germs such as Listeria, E. coli, Brucella and Salmonella, with higher risk for children under 5, adults over 65, pregnant women and people with weak immunity.

Hazards the sources name: Coagulase-positive staphylococci and Salmonella (tested; below limits or absent in all 15 household samples).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

In Algeria smen is called smen or dhan, in Morocco smen, in Egypt semna and in Sudan samin, and long-matured smen is used in traditional medicine for coughs. A 2022 field survey of 630 elderly people in northern Morocco found that two thirds knew of its medicinal uses.

  1. [boussekine2022] Boussekine R., Bekhouche F., Debaets S., Thierry A., Maillard M.-B., Falentin H. et al. 2022, Deciphering the microbiota and volatile profiles of Algerian smen, a traditional fermented butter, Microorganisms 10(4):736paper
  2. [fao-tmp-iii] FAO 1990, The technology of traditional milk products in developing countries, Animal Production and Health Paper 85, section III "Butter and milk-fat products"gov
  3. [ellamti2024] El Lamti F., Mennane Z., Elmtili N., Mrani Alaoui M. 2024, Ethnomedicinal knowledge and traditional methodology for the preparation of fermented butter "smen" among the rural people of northern Morocco, Journal of Medicinal Food, doi:10.1089/jmf.2024.0087 (abstract)paper
  4. [wp] Wikipedia, Smen (outline only)wiki
  5. [cdc-raw-milk] US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Raw Milk (food safety page)gov