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Cereals and bread from Philippines

Puto (fermented galapong)puto

Soaked rice is ground with water into a wet paste. One tenth of it is grown into a yeast-and-lactic starter while the rest drains in a cloth and sours. The two are mixed and fermented, the sour batter is neutralised with lye and sweetened, and after a second rise it is steamed into a soft, spongy cake.

Fully documentedCereals and bread2.8 days – 2.9 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceTraditional household method described by Kozaki et al. 2001. The percentages are as the source gives them; it does not say exactly what the 10–15 % sugar is measured against.
Polished riceTraditionally year-old rice[fao1999]
Water[kozaki2001]
Sugar for the starterAbout 1 % of the riceFeeds the yeasts[kozaki2001]
Food-grade lye or sodium hydroxideNeutralises the soured batter. No amount is given here; see the safety note[kozaki2001]
Sugar for the second rise10–15 %White sugar for white puto, brown sugar for red puto[kozaki2001]
Startera starter grown from one tenth of the wet rice paste, with a little sugar; in newer methods a prepared yeast and lactic starter

Total time across the recorded steps: 2.8 days – 2.9 days

Start
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Close-up: water moving into a grain

What changes: Rice soaks in water for a few hours

Step 1 of 7
Soak the rice
Time
3–4 h
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Yeasts
L. mesenteroides
Enterococcus faecalis
Lactic acid bacteria

Output: soaked rice.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Soaked rice is ground with water into a wet paste. One tenth of it is grown into a yeast-and-lactic starter while the rest drains in a cloth and sours. The two are mixed and fermented, the sour batter is neutralised with lye and sweetened, and after a second rise it is steamed into a soft, spongy cake. Made in 7 steps over 2.8 days – 2.9 days. The longest step, grow a starter from one tenth of the paste, takes 24 h (Kozaki M 2001) and runs at 20–25 °C (Kozaki M 2001). Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Enterococcus faecalis do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step24 hReported[kozaki2001]Grow a starter from one tenth of the paste
Temperature20–25 °CReported[kozaki2001]Grow a starter from one tenth of the paste

What makes this one different

Puto is made from rice with no legumes, unlike idli. Its sour batter is neutralised with lye partway through and fermented a second time, so the cake is sweet, not sour.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Red putoMore lye and brown sugar give a yellow-brown cake. See the safety note on lye.
  • Improved starter methodA prepared yeast and lactic starter with 1–2 % sugar; primary fermentation overnight (12–15 h), second fermentation 3–5 h; some shops add baking powder.
  • Puto with cheese or eggsVarieties with added cheese, eggs and the like are eaten as delicacies by higher-income groups.
  • Puto with wheat flourIn some homes and markets wheat flour, 30–50 % of the rice, is added before fermenting.

Safety

Lye (sodium hydroxide) is corrosive. It burns skin and eyes, and swallowing it can severely injure the mouth, gullet and stomach [atsdr-naoh]. Use only food-grade lye, never drain cleaner; US rules accept it as a food ingredient only when it meets the Food Chemicals Codex [cfr-naoh]. This page gives no lye amount because the figure it carried, about 1 %, did not say how strong the lye was or what the percentage was of. By our working, read as pure sodium hydroxide by weight of batter, it is far more than 0.6 % acidity counted as lactic acid can neutralise, and the excess would leave the batter caustic. Read this page as a record of the craft, not as a home recipe for using lye. The sources read give no storage or safety limit for puto. As a general rule for cooked rice foods, FDA's Bad Bug Book says the vomiting type of Bacillus cereus illness most often involves rice and other starchy foods, that cooking may kill the bacteria without disabling the toxin they have already made, and that food should be kept refrigerated at 40 °F or lower. The same book says the emetic toxin survives heating at 121 °C for 30 minutes. This is a general warning about rice foods, not a finding about puto.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

FAO (1999) describes puto as a common food of the lower-income group and, citing Sanchez (1977), an important cottage industry in a number of Philippine towns.

  1. [kozaki2001] Kozaki M., Dizon E.I., Sanchez P.C., Seki T. 2001, Steamed rice bread in the Philippines, puto (rice bread), Food Preservation Science 27(5):295–302 (in Japanese)paper
  2. [fao1999] FAO 1999, Fermented cereals, a global perspective, chapter 3, Cereal fermentations in countries of the Asia-Pacific regiongov
  3. [nout2007] Nout M.J.R., Sarkar P.K. and Beuchat L.R. 2007, Indigenous fermented foods, chapter 38 in Doyle M.P. and Beuchat L.R. (eds), Food Microbiology, Fundamentals and Frontiers, 3rd edition, ASM Press (author copy in the Wageningen repository)book
  4. [kelly1995] Kelly W.J., Asmundson R.V., Harrison G.L. and Huang C.M. 1995, Differentiation of dextran-producing Leuconostoc strains from fermented rice cake (puto) using pulsed-field gel electrophoresis, International Journal of Food Microbiology 26(3):345–352 (abstract)paper
  5. [tamang2016] Tamang J.P., Watanabe K., Holzapfel W.H. 2016, Review, diversity of microorganisms in global fermented foods and beverages, Frontiers in Microbiology 7:377 (table entry for puto)paper
  6. [atsdr-naoh] Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (CDC), Medical Management Guidelines for Sodium Hydroxidegov
  7. [cfr-naoh] US Code of Federal Regulations, 21 CFR 184.1763, Sodium hydroxidegov
  8. [fda-bbb] U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Bad Bug Book, Foodborne Pathogenic Microorganisms and Natural Toxins, 2nd ed. (chapter on Bacillus cereus; general hazard for rice foods, not specific to puto)gov