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Cheese from Italy, Lazio
Heat-treated ewe milk is soured with a starter, set with lamb or calf rennet and broken to corn-kernel size. The unpressed cheeses are warmed to drain, salted and kept two weeks in a cold room, then finished for 60–90 days in caves cut in volcanic tuff or lapilli. The cheeses may be wrapped in meadow hay and rubbed with oil.
| Whole ewe milk | Only ewe milk, from flocks around Lake Bolsena; filtered first[arsial-grotta][onaf-grotta] |
| Mesophilic and/or thermophilic lactic cultures | Added at 36–38 °C[arsial-grotta] |
| Lamb rennet paste or calf rennet powder40–60 g per 100 L of milk | [arsial-grotta] |
| Salt | Brine at 20–22 °Bé, or dry salt[arsial-grotta][onaf-grotta] |
| Meadow hay, olive oil | May be wrapped round and rubbed on the cheeses in the cave; some makers use oil and ash or walnut leaves[arsial-grotta][onaf-grotta] |
| Starter | mesophilic and/or thermophilic cultures added at 36–38 °C |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.3 months – 3.5 months
What changes: Filtered ewe milk is heated briefly to 62–68 °C
Output: heat-treated ewe milk.
Microbes at work in this step
the heat kills most milk bacteria
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Heat-treated ewe milk is soured with a starter, set with lamb or calf rennet and broken to corn-kernel size. The unpressed cheeses are warmed to drain, salted and kept two weeks in a cold room, then finished for 60–90 days in caves cut in volcanic tuff or lapilli. The cheeses may be wrapped in meadow hay and rubbed with oil. Made in 8 steps over 2.3 months – 3.5 months. The longest step, finish in a volcanic cave, takes 2–3 months (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…) and runs at 10–11 °C (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…).
| Main step | 2–3 monthsReported[arsial-grotta] | Finish in a volcanic cave |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–11 °CReported[arsial-grotta][onaf-grotta] | Finish in a volcanic cave |
It is not buried in a pit like formaggio di fossa. It finishes in open caves dug in volcanic tuff, which hold about 10–11 °C and 90 % humidity all year, often on beds of meadow hay.
The milk is heat-treated and a starter is added, and the cheese ripens for months. The UK NHS lists hard cheeses as safe in pregnancy.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The firm said to have first made this cheese is based in Montefiascone, which still has a long lapilli cave under the papal fortress, the Rocca dei Papi. The ONAF sheet calls it a cheese recovered from the shepherding tradition of the Lake Bolsena area, handed down for many decades, especially around Cellere. A local story credits Saverio, an innkeeper in the cave, with finding the taste of cheeses left for months beside fragrant herbs.
