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Cheese from Italy, Puglia
Raw ewe milk from flocks on pasture is warmed to 37–43 °C in copper cauldrons and set with kid or lamb rennet. The curd is broken with a smooth wooden spoon-stick, the m'natur, pressed by hand into rush baskets and salted dry for 3–7 days. It ripens on wooden boards in cool, dim rooms for 2 months, or 6–8 months for the aged cheese, which is rubbed with olive oil and vinegar.
| Raw whole ewe milk, worked straight after milking | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Kid or lamb rennet | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Coarse salt | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Olive oil and vinegar for the rind of the aged cheese | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | none added; the sheet says only the milk's own microflora is used |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.1 months – 8.3 months
What changes: Filtered raw ewe milk is warmed to 37–43 °C in a copper cauldron
The milk is filtered through tight cotton cloth or a fine sieve and worked straight after milking. Output: warm raw ewe milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw ewe milk from flocks on pasture is warmed to 37–43 °C in copper cauldrons and set with kid or lamb rennet. The curd is broken with a smooth wooden spoon-stick, the m'natur, pressed by hand into rush baskets and salted dry for 3–7 days. It ripens on wooden boards in cool, dim rooms for 2 months, or 6–8 months for the aged cheese, which is rubbed with olive oil and vinegar. Made in 6 steps over 2.1 months – 8.3 months. The longest step, ripen in cool, dim rooms, takes 2–8 months (Regione Puglia) and runs at 13–15 °C (Regione Puglia).
| Main step | 2–8 monthsReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen in cool, dim rooms |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 13–15 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen in cool, dim rooms |
The pecorino of the Capitanata, still made with wooden hand tools such as the m'natur stick. It is salted dry for up to a week, and the aged wheels are rubbed with oil and vinegar.
The regional sheet calls for clean milking and working the milk straight away. Milk with too high a bacterial count can be heated to near 72 °C, and the milk must come from disease-free flocks. The cheese ripens at least 2 months.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
ONAF's sheet ties the cheese to the Dogana delle pecore, an Aragonese body that ran from 1447 to 1806 in the Capitanata and managed the pastures and sheep tracks. In that system pecorino was often used as money and in barter. Shepherds sold it to merchants from Corato, called quaratini, who bought it fresh, aged it and sold it across the Kingdom of Naples. The cheese was later called Incanestrato Foggiano, which ONAF calls the forerunner of today's Canestrato Pugliese PDO.
