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Cheese from Italy, Umbria
Raw ewe milk is heated over a wood fire to about 37–40 °C and set with lamb rennet the shepherd makes himself, dried by the hearth so it carries a light smoke. The curd is broken to wheat-grain size, shaped by hand in wooden hoops, sometimes dipped in hot whey and pressed again, and salted dry. It ripens from 60 days to a year on wooden boards in cool rooms or cellars.
| Raw whole ewe milk, filtered | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Natural lamb rennet from the farm's own lambs, made by each shepherd and dried near the hearth | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Salt, rubbed on dry | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | none added |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 12 months
What changes: Filtered raw ewe milk is warmed to 37–40 °C in a copper cauldron over a wood fire
Output: warm raw ewe milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw ewe milk is heated over a wood fire to about 37–40 °C and set with lamb rennet the shepherd makes himself, dried by the hearth so it carries a light smoke. The curd is broken to wheat-grain size, shaped by hand in wooden hoops, sometimes dipped in hot whey and pressed again, and salted dry. It ripens from 60 days to a year on wooden boards in cool rooms or cellars. Made in 7 steps over 2 months – 12 months. The longest step, ripen in cellars, takes 2–12 months (Regione dell'Umbria) and runs at 6 °C (ONAF (national organisation of cheese tasters)).
| Main step | 2–12 monthsReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen in cellars |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6 °CReported[onaf-sheet] | Ripen in cellars |
The traditional raw-milk Norcia pecorino. Each shepherd makes his own lamb rennet and dries it by the hearth, so the cheese carries a light smoke; the milk is heated only on a wood fire.
A raw-milk cheese with home-made rennet; it ripens at least 60 days. In a challenge study, E. coli O157 added to raw ewe milk was still detectable in pecorino after 90 days of ripening, so ripening alone did not remove it. ANSES, the French food safety agency, says Listeria and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli in raw-milk cheeses can kill. It advises pregnant women, people with weak immunity, people over 65 and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses, except cooked pressed cheeses such as gruyère or comté; its page does not name pecorino. It adds that raw-milk cheese well cooked, as in an oven dish, no longer poses a risk.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes. In a related Umbrian raw-milk ewe cheese, Pecorino Umbro (made with an added starter and milk heated to 55–58 °C, unlike this cheese), L. monocytogenes inoculated at about 10^2 CFU/mL fell below the quantification limit after 30 days of ripening but could still be detected during storage; Escherichia coli O157 in raw ewe milk; in a challenge study of pecorino made by other recipes it was still detectable after 90 days of ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
A label from 1950 is cited as proof of the tradition. On Saint Anthony's day, 17 January, shepherds gave every family quagliatella, a creamy soured milk set with rennet, and pressed crosses of twigs into the moulds.
