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Cheese from Italy, Calabria
Raw ewe milk, with up to 20% goat milk, is set at 36–38 °C with kid paste rennet the shepherds make themselves, taking 40–50 minutes in all. The curd is broken to rice size and cooked at 42–44 °C for 5–6 minutes while stirred, then pressed by hand into rush baskets and salted dry the next day. It begins to mature after 15 days on shelves at 4–8 °C and is aged from a few weeks to a few months.
| Raw whole ewe milk | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Raw goat milk, up to 20% of the mix | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Kid paste rennet made by the shepherds (ONAF also allows lamb), diluted in warm water | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Salt, rubbed on dry | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | none; the milk's own flora |
Total time across the recorded steps: 45 min – 56 min
What changes: Ewe milk with up to 20% goat milk is filtered and warmed to 36–38 °C
The milk is filtered through a fine sieve as it goes into the cauldron. Output: warm raw ewe and goat milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw ewe milk, with up to 20% goat milk, is set at 36–38 °C with kid paste rennet the shepherds make themselves, taking 40–50 minutes in all. The curd is broken to rice size and cooked at 42–44 °C for 5–6 minutes while stirred, then pressed by hand into rush baskets and salted dry the next day. It begins to mature after 15 days on shelves at 4–8 °C and is aged from a few weeks to a few months. Made in 7 steps over 45 min – 56 min. The longest step, set with kid paste rennet, takes 40–50 min (Regione Calabria). The milk's own natural microflora; no starter is added does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 40–50 minReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Set with kid paste rennet |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 36–38 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Filter and warm the milk |
Ewe milk may be mixed with up to 20% goat milk, and the curd is set with kid paste rennet the shepherds make themselves. Every step is done by hand, and the curd is pressed hard and long in rush baskets.
A raw-milk cheese. The regional sheet names total bacterial count, somatic cells and Staphylococcus aureus as raw-milk risks, to be handled by checking the milk against D.P.R. 54/97 (or by thermising or pasteurising it), good hygiene and a visual check of the finished cheese. ANSES, the French food safety agency, says Listeria and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli in raw-milk cheeses can kill. It advises pregnant women, people with weak immunity, people over 65 and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses, except cooked pressed cheeses such as gruyère or comté; its page does not name pecorino.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus, named by the regional sheet as a raw-milk risk alongside total bacterial count and somatic cells.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
ONAF's sheet says documents on pecorino in Calabria go back to 1500. The most telling one, from 1759, asks for a sound, whole cheese, not cracked or blown, with the curd broken tender, weighing 5.5 libbre a piece. A farm in Casignana holds papers showing it has made this cheese for more than 25 years.
