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Cheese from Italy, Toscana
Filtered raw ewe milk is warmed to 35–38 °C in a tinned-copper kettle and set with a spoonful of lamb rennet or wild-thistle coagulant. The curd is broken with a chiova, stoved warm in moulds, dry-salted and ripened on wooden boards. The milk never goes above 40 °C.
| Raw whole ewe milk | Filtered; often from the native Massese breed[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Liquid rennet from lamb stomachs, or a coagulant from wild thistle flowersone spoonful | ONAF also lists calf rennet[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Salt | Dry salt[onaf-sheet][pat-sheet] |
| Starter | ONAF says only liquid rennet and salt are added to the milk, which keeps its own bacterial flora |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months
What changes: Starting material: raw ewe milk, filtered and warmed to 35–38 °C
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Filtered raw ewe milk is warmed to 35–38 °C in a tinned-copper kettle and set with a spoonful of lamb rennet or wild-thistle coagulant. The curd is broken with a chiova, stoved warm in moulds, dry-salted and ripened on wooden boards. The milk never goes above 40 °C. Made in 6 steps over 2 months. The longest step, ripen on wooden boards, takes at least 2 months (Regione Toscana / ARSIA).
| Main step | at least 2 monthsReported[pat-sheet] | Ripen on wooden boards |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 35–38 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Filter and warm the raw milk |
The milk is never heated above 40 °C, and only rennet and salt are added, so the milk keeps its own bacterial flora. Wild-thistle coagulant is an option, and it is sold at three ages.
Made from raw milk. ONAF notes the milk is tested for a low bacterial count. In a challenge study, E. coli O157 added to raw ewe milk was still detectable in pecorino after 90 days. ANSES, the French food safety agency, says Listeria and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli in raw-milk cheeses can kill. It advises pregnant women, people with weak immunity, people over 65 and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses, except cooked pressed kinds such as Gruyère or Comté, which this cheese is not. It adds that raw-milk cheese that is well cooked, as in an oven recipe, no longer poses a risk.
Hazards the sources name: Escherichia coli O157, added to raw ewe milk in a challenge study of Italian pecorino made by several methods, not this cheese; still countable at 60 days and detectable after 90 days of ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Regione Toscana sheet lists promotion events in 2001 - a meeting on raw-milk pecorino at the Palazzo Pretorio in Pistoia on 7-8 April, organised by the CNA, and the second review of Pistoia pastoral products on 28-29 April. It records a Slow Food (Arcigola) Presidio grouping 20 producers, out of 40 in the province, and an output of about 30 quintals a year from farms of the Pistoia Apennines. ONAF adds that the make is the one used a hundred years ago, with natural rennet and fresh raw milk.
