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Cheese from Italy, Puglia
Raw whole cow milk from semi-wild Murgia herds is set with rennet at 36–37 °C, and the curd is left on wooden tables for up to a day to sour. The soured curd is stretched by hand in water at 85–90 °C, closed into a ball with no head, brined and ripened for months, where possible hung in tuff cellars.
| Raw whole cow milk | From cows kept semi-wild on Murgia pastures[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Natural whey starter from earlier makes | [onaf-sheet] |
| Rennet | Liquid calf or kid rennet (Slow Food); the ONAF sheet lists liquid bovine, kid or lamb rennet[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet][slowfood] |
| Salt | As saturated brine[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | natural whey starter (siero-innesto) from earlier makes |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4.1 days – 5.1 days
What changes: Whey starter goes into raw cow milk as it warms to 36–37 °C
Output: warm raw milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw whole cow milk from semi-wild Murgia herds is set with rennet at 36–37 °C, and the curd is left on wooden tables for up to a day to sour. The soured curd is stretched by hand in water at 85–90 °C, closed into a ball with no head, brined and ripened for months, where possible hung in tuff cellars. Made in 9 steps over 4.1 days – 5.1 days. The longest step, dry, takes 3–4 days (Regione Puglia).
| Main step | 3–4 daysReported[pat-sheet] | Dry |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 36–37 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Warm the milk with whey starter |
It is a raw-milk pasta filata shaped as a ball, essentially a caciocavallo without the small head. The curd sours for up to a day before stretching, and the cheese is hung for months, where possible in tuff cellars.
Made from raw milk. The curd is stretched in water at 85–90 °C. The regional sheet requests no hygiene derogation. Raw-milk cheese can carry Listeria, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin E. coli. ANSES, the French food-safety agency, advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat it, except cooked pressed kinds such as Gruyère, which this stretched cheese is not.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The regional sheet cites an 1859 agricultural encyclopedia by Achille Bruni of the Royal University of Naples. ONAF says that book describes the cheese as a caciocavallo without a head. A producers' consortium in Gravina wrote rules for the historic method, approved by its board on 28 November 2009.
