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Cheese from Türkiye, Van and Hakkari provinces
Mostly sheep milk is set with rennet at about 30 °C, and the curd drains in cloth bags in layers with chopped wild herbs, about 2% of the cheese weight, led by sirmo (wild chive). The slices are dry-salted for 3–4 days, washed, packed tightly into clay pots between layers of herbed çökelek and buried upside down in the ground for 4 to 7 months. A fresh version made from pasteurised milk ripens 30–60 days in brine instead.
| Sheep milk mainly; cow or goat milk or a mix are allowed, not skimmed or watered | Raw milk for the buried, dry-salted cheese; pasteurised milk for the fresh brined cheese[van-gi] |
| Rennet, bought liquid or home-made from sheep abomasum with black pepper, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, sugar and waterAbout 100 ml per 80 L of milk (traditional rennet) | Alum must not be added to home-made rennet[van-gi] |
| Wild herbs; required are sirmo (Allium schoenoprasum), mendo, heliz (Ferula orientalis), wild mint, kekik (Thymus migricus) and siyabo; 13 others are optionalAt most 2% of the cheese weight | [van-gi] |
| Çökelek (cacık), a herbed curd made from boiled, yoghurt-soured and churned milk, layered between the cheese in the pots | On average 6.02 g of herbs per 100 g of cacık[van-gi] |
| Coarse salt, at least 98–99% sodium chloride | [van-gi] |
| Starter | a yoghurt culture sours the milk for the çökelek layered with the cheese |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4.1 months – 7.1 months
What changes: Wild herbs are chopped fine and kept in brine
Spring herbs are washed, chopped to 0.5–1 cm, dipped in boiling water (not thyme) and kept in brine so cheese can be made after the season.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Mostly sheep milk is set with rennet at about 30 °C, and the curd drains in cloth bags in layers with chopped wild herbs, about 2% of the cheese weight, led by sirmo (wild chive). The slices are dry-salted for 3–4 days, washed, packed tightly into clay pots between layers of herbed çökelek and buried upside down in the ground for 4 to 7 months. A fresh version made from pasteurised milk ripens 30–60 days in brine instead. Made in 6 steps over 4.1 months – 7.1 months. The longest step, ripen buried in the ground, takes 4–7 months (TÜRKPATENT (Turkish Patent and Trademark Offi…). Salt is 5.8 % (TÜRKPATENT (Turkish Patent and Trademark Offi…). Lactic acid bacteria, up to 7.0 log CFU/g in market Van herb cheeses and Yoghurt culture, used to sour the milk for the çökelek layered with the cheese do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 4–7 monthsSet[van-gi] | Ripen buried in the ground |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30 °CSet[van-gi] | Set the milk |
| Salt | 5.8 %Set[van-gi] | Prepare the herbs |
| Acidity | pH 3.9Set[van-gi] | Prepare the herbs |
Chopped wild herbs, led by sirmo, go into the curd, and the classic cheese ripens for months in clay pots buried mouth-down in the ground rather than only in brine. It is layered with a herbed çökelek made from soured, churned milk.
The buried cheese is made from raw milk and is dry-salted and ripened for at least 4 months; the fresh brined type must use pasteurised milk. A study of 100 market cheeses found biogenic amines (for example histamine up to 469 mg/kg). Its authors judged the cheeses fit to eat overall, but they also called the histamine in about 10 % of samples toxicologically significant. Some samples carried S. aureus and coliforms. ANSES, the French food-safety agency, advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheese, except cooked pressed kinds such as Gruyère, which this is not.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus up to 2.60 log CFU/g and coliform bacteria up to 6.08 log CFU/g in market Van herb cheeses.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The registration says herb cheese has been made in Van and Hakkari for over 200 years and that Evliya Çelebi described a cheese with herbs in Van. Nomadic herders knew the wild plants well, and cheese was once made only in scattered family dairies.
