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Sauces and condiments from England
A historical recipe, not a modern product. Large mushroom flaps were salted overnight so they gave up a dark liquor, which was strained, boiled with spices and bottled. Recipes by Hannah Glasse (1747) and Elizabeth Raffald (1769) show it; it is a salt extraction with no documented microbial fermentation.
| Large mushroom flaps | Only straws and dirt picked off[glasse1747] |
| SaltA good deal (Glasse); a handful per peck of mushrooms (Raffald) | [glasse1747][raffald1769] |
| Whole ginger1/4 oz per quart of liquor | [glasse1747] |
| Whole pepper1/8 oz (half a quarter of an ounce) per quart of liquor | [glasse1747] |
| Mace and cloves4 or 5 blades of mace and 6 cloves per pint bottle | [glasse1747] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 16 min – 12 h
What changes: Salt draws dark juice out of the mushrooms overnight
Output: salted mushrooms sitting in their own dark juice.
Microbes at work in this step
salt draws juice out of the mushroom flesh
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A historical recipe, not a modern product. Large mushroom flaps were salted overnight so they gave up a dark liquor, which was strained, boiled with spices and bottled. Recipes by Hannah Glasse (1747) and Elizabeth Raffald (1769) show it; it is a salt extraction with no documented microbial fermentation. Made in 5 steps over 16 min – 12 h. The longest step, break, heat and wring out the juice, takes 1 min – 12 h (Glasse H. 1747).
| Main step | 1 min – 12 hReported[glasse1747][raffald1769] | Break, heat and wring out the juice |
|---|
Unlike tomato ketchup, this is a thin, dark extract of salted mushrooms with no sugar or vinegar. Unlike fish sauce, the salting lasts only one night, so the flavour comes from salt and heat rather than a long fermentation.
A historical recipe, kept as a record and not a method to copy at home. In his 1821 recipe Kitchiner says a badly corked bottle kept in a damp place will soon spoil. He tells the cook to hold the bottle up to a strong light and, if a skin (pellicle) forms on the liquor, to boil it up again with a few peppercorns. He adds that the spice is there to keep the catsup from fermenting. Do not follow that advice: the National Center for Home Food Preservation says not to taste food that shows signs of spoilage, and that spoiled low-acid foods may show very little sign of it, so suspect containers should be treated as having produced botulinum toxin. It also gives mushrooms only pressure-canner processes and says not to can wild mushrooms. Kitchiner says only that the mushrooms must be the right sort and fresh gathered.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Glasse's The Art of Cookery (1747) and Raffald's The Experienced English Housekeeper (1769) both print mushroom ketchup, and both books call for a spoonful of catchup in many sauces. By the third edition of Kitchiner's The Cook's Oracle (1821) he describes mushroom catsup as a relish for made dishes, ragouts, soups and sauces and urges cooks to make it at home.
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