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Sauces and condiments from Iraq, North Africa and al-Andalus
Murri was a dark, salty liquid seasoning of the medieval Arab world, made from barley dough that was left to rot (budhaj) and then fermented with salt and water in the summer sun. It has been compared with soy sauce for its savoury taste. It was used widely in cooking and died out after about the 14th century.
| Budhaj (rotted barley), ground5 ratls | Barley flour, or barley and wheat, kneaded without leaven or salt and left to rot[friedman-andalusian] |
| Flour5 ratls | Made into a dough without leaven or salt, baked and dried[friedman-andalusian] |
| SaltA third the quantity | [friedman-andalusian] |
| Water | Sprinkled on daily, then an equal quantity added in the jar[friedman-andalusian] |
| Cinnamon, saffron and aromatic herbsSome | Added to the strained murri[friedman-andalusian] |
| Starter | budhaj: barley dough left to rot, which Perry calls mould-cultured barley |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.6 months
What changes: Unsalted barley loaves wrapped in fig leaves rot in a closed jar for about 40 days
Output: rotted barley loaves, then dried and ground.
Microbes at work in this step
moulds and other microbes grow through the unsalted dough
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Murri was a dark, salty liquid seasoning of the medieval Arab world, made from barley dough that was left to rot (budhaj) and then fermented with salt and water in the summer sun. It has been compared with soy sauce for its savoury taste. It was used widely in cooking and died out after about the 14th century. Made in 4 steps over 2.6 months. The longest step, make budhaj (rotted barley), takes 40 days (An Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook of the 13th…). Salt is 33 % (An Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook of the 13th…). Mould that grows on the unsalted barley dough does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 40 daysReported[friedman-andalusian] | Make budhaj (rotted barley) |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 33 %Reported[friedman-andalusian] | Knead with salt and ferment in the summer sun |
Unlike soy sauce, murri was made from barley, not soybeans. Its mould starter (budhaj) was grown by leaving unsalted barley dough to rot in a closed container, and the salted paste was then fermented in an open trough in the summer sun.
This page records a medieval method. It is not a tested recipe, so do not make budhaj at home. Budhaj is unsalted barley dough left to rot for about 40 days, with no salt or leaven in it, and no source we read names the mould that grows. Moulds on damp grain can make mycotoxins, which WHO says range from acute poisoning to cancer and mostly survive food processing [who-mycotoxins], so the later salt, sun and straining cannot be relied on to remove them. No period source gives salt as a percentage, and no modern study has measured a reconstruction, so nothing shows it holds back harmful bacteria either.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Charles Perry calls murri a kind of soy sauce made by culturing barley dough. Its terms mix Persian (budhaj, "rotted"), Aramaic (qamn, "mould") and Greek (murri, from halmyris, "something salty"), so he concludes it must have arisen in the Fertile Crescent. He finds no evidence of murri in Iran or Byzantium, but says it was popular throughout the Arab world in the Middle Ages, with recipes in Arabic cookery books of the 10th and 13th centuries; Iraq and North Africa had their own versions and knew each other's. Friedman writes that it vanished sometime after the fourteenth century. The "Byzantine murri" of the 13th-century Kitab Wasf is apparently a fake substitute made by a simpler process.
