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Cheese from Italy, Campania
Mozzarella nella mortella is a very fresh stretched-curd cow cheese from the lower Cilento, sold in bunches wrapped in myrtle (mortella). Unlike ordinary mozzarella, the broken curd ripens with almost no whey, so the cheese is compact and dry with a thicker skin. Flat, tongue-shaped pieces are packed between myrtle sprigs and eaten within 5 days.
| Whole cow milk | Kept at 4 °C so the fat does not separate; pasteurised in most dairies, raw in the Presidio[onaf-sheet][slowfood] |
| Whey starter from the previous day's make (optional) | [onaf-sheet][slowfood] |
| Calf rennet | [onaf-sheet] |
| Hot water for stretching; brine | [onaf-sheet] |
| Freshly picked myrtle sprigs, tied with broom twigs | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | optional acid whey starter from the previous day, added at 20 °C |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 h – 24 h
What changes: Calf rennet sets the milk at about 37 °C, after whey starter if it is used
Output: dense, fairly firm curd.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Mozzarella nella mortella is a very fresh stretched-curd cow cheese from the lower Cilento, sold in bunches wrapped in myrtle (mortella). Unlike ordinary mozzarella, the broken curd ripens with almost no whey, so the cheese is compact and dry with a thicker skin. Flat, tongue-shaped pieces are packed between myrtle sprigs and eaten within 5 days. Made in 6 steps over 12 h – 24 h. The longest step, ripen the curd with almost no whey, takes 12–24 h (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…).
| Main step | 12–24 hReported[onaf-sheet][slowfood] | Ripen the curd with almost no whey |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 37 °CReported[onaf-sheet][slowfood] | Add calf rennet, and whey starter if used |
The curd ripens almost without whey, so the cheese is firmer and drier than mozzarella; the ONAF sheet calls it in practice a very fresh caciocavallo. It is wrapped in myrtle, once to protect it on the way from the pastures to the villages.
Most dairies pasteurise the milk; the Presidio cheese is made from raw milk, which ONAF says is kept at 4 °C so the fat does not separate. The cheese is eaten fresh, within 5 days of making, and removed from the myrtle before eating. When the milk is raw, the US CDC says people at higher risk of Listeria infection, including pregnant women, people 65 or older and people with weak immunity, should avoid the cheese unless it is heated to 165 °F (74 °C) or until steaming hot.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The cheese was made near the pastures and wrapped in myrtle, an evergreen shrub common in the Cilento, to protect it on the way to the villages where it was sold. ONAF records it as made for at least 25 years in the area.
