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Starters and koji from Vietnam

Men (bánh men)men

Men are dry starter cakes of rice that carry moulds, yeasts and bacteria. In the Xuan Thanh distilleries, crumbled men sweeten cooked rice in 2–3 days, and after water is added the mash ferments for 1–2 more days before it is distilled into rượu đế.

Fully documentedStarters and koji3 days – 5 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedNo source checked gives amounts for the cakes; makers in Xuan Thanh used starters and doses by experience, some a single kind and some a mix.
RiceRice or wheat is the base of Asian dry starters in general[tamang2016]
An older starterAround 1–2 % of earlier starter seeds the dough of Asian dry starters in general[tamang2016]
Rice or glutinous rice, cooked, for the wine[phong2007]
Starterback-slop for Asian dry starters in general (Tamang et al. 2016): an older starter is mixed into the dough

Total time across the recorded steps: 3 days – 5 days

Start
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pH 5.8

What changes: Rice dough with old starter is shaped into cakes and dried

Step 1 of 4
Make the starter cakes
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
pH 5.8
Measured
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
Yeasts

The making method is the general one for Asian dry starters (Tamang et al.); no source checked gives times, amounts or added herbs for men itself. Output: dry men cakes.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

in Asian dry starters in general, an older starter seeds the dough and the mixed culture grows briefly, then dries

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Men are dry starter cakes of rice that carry moulds, yeasts and bacteria. In the Xuan Thanh distilleries, crumbled men sweeten cooked rice in 2–3 days, and after water is added the mash ferments for 1–2 more days before it is distilled into rượu đế. Made in 4 steps over 3 days – 5 days. The longest step, mix crumbled men into cooked rice and let it sweeten, takes 2–3 days (Huynh Xuan Phong 2007) and runs at 34 °C (Dung N.T.P 2006). Moulds Rhizopus oryzae, R. microsporus, Absidia corymbifera and Amylomyces and Amylomyces rouxii, one of the best starch-splitters among isolates do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step2–3 daysReported[phong2007]Mix crumbled men into cooked rice and let it sweeten
Temperature34 °CReported[dung2006]Mix crumbled men into cooked rice and let it sweeten
AciditypH 5.8Measured[lee1999]Make the starter cakes

What makes this one different

Men are Vietnam's form of the Southeast Asian rice-cake starter. Their mould side was similar across 52 samples, while their bacteria varied widely from sample to sample.

Related ferments

Safety

Water used in Xuan Thanh rice-wine making often carried high coliform counts, and most spirits tested were above the national limits for aldehydes, esters and furfural.

Hazards the sources name: Plant pathogens and environmental contaminants such as Burkholderia ubonensis and Ralstonia solanacearum.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

By 2007, glutinous-rice wine at Xuan Thanh in Tra Vinh was giving way to cheaper broken-rice wine (Phong et al. 2007).

  1. [thanh2008] Thanh V.N., Mai L.T., Tuan D.A. 2008, Microbial diversity of traditional Vietnamese alcohol fermentation starters (banh men) as determined by PCR-mediated DGGE, International Journal of Food Microbiology 128:268–273 (abstract)paper
  2. [dung2006] Dung N.T.P., Rombouts F.M., Nout M.J.R. 2006, Functionality of selected strains of moulds and yeasts from Vietnamese rice wine starters, Food Microbiology 23:331–340 (abstract)paper
  3. [lee1999] Lee A.C., Fujio Y. 1999, Microflora of banh men, a fermentation starter from Vietnam, World Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology 15:51–55 (abstract, AGRICOLA record)paper
  4. [phong2007] Huynh Xuan Phong, Huynh Ngoc Thanh Tam, Ha Thanh Toan, Ngo Thi Phuong Dung 2007, Study of traditional alcoholic starters and rice wines of Xuan Thanh, Tra Vinh, Can Tho University Journal of Science 7:121–129 (in Vietnamese)paper
  5. [tamang2016] Tamang J.P., Watanabe K., Holzapfel W.H. 2016, Review, Diversity of microorganisms in global fermented foods and beverages, Frontiers in Microbiology 7:377paper