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Cheese from Italy, Piemonte
Whole cow milk, raw by tradition and now sometimes pasteurised, is set with natural calf rennet at 34–37 °C in 40–60 minutes. The curd is cut to rice size and semi-cooked at 40–42 °C in winter, up to 48–50 °C on the summer pastures. It is moulded, lightly pressed, salted the next day and ripened from 20–30 days to several months.
| Whole cow milk | Once always raw, now also pasteurised; worked warm after milking or chilled and made once a day[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Natural calf rennet | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Salt, dry or as brine | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | none added in the Slow Food Macagn; the ONAF sheet says additives and ferments, even natural ones, are forbidden for it |
Total time across the recorded steps: 20 days
What changes: Natural calf rennet goes into the whole milk at 34–37 °C
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole cow milk, raw by tradition and now sometimes pasteurised, is set with natural calf rennet at 34–37 °C in 40–60 minutes. The curd is cut to rice size and semi-cooked at 40–42 °C in winter, up to 48–50 °C on the summer pastures. It is moulded, lightly pressed, salted the next day and ripened from 20–30 days to several months. Made in 6 steps over 20 days. The longest step, ripen, takes at least 20 days (Regione Piemonte 2015). Lactococcus lactis and Streptococcus thermophilus, core taxa during ripening of Maccagno made at one dairy in Piedmont does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 20 daysReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 34–37 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Set the curd |
A Biella mountain cheese whose cooking temperature rises with season and altitude, from 40–42 °C in winter to 48–50 °C on the summer pastures. It is traditionally ripened in small underground 'crotin' beside the alpine huts.
The regional sheet finds no risks beyond those of ordinary cheese-making and says good dairy hygiene practice is enough. It asks for derogations for copper cauldrons, natural cloths and wooden boards, and rates the cheese as meeting safety requirements to a medium-to-high degree. The milk was once always raw and may now be pasteurised; the Slow Food Macagn allows raw milk only. In a study at one dairy, summer cheeses carried the most spoilage microbes, mainly from the plant, and had off-flavours. The CDC advises people who are pregnant, aged 65 or over or immunocompromised to avoid any cheese made with raw milk, unless it is heated until steaming hot.
Hazards the sources name: Spoilage microbes Acinetobacter and Enterobacteriaceae, mainly from the dairy plant, most prevalent in summer cheeses and linked to off-flavours.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The ONAF sheet says the origins of Maccagno are lost in time and that the name comes from the Alpe Maccagno, a Valsesia alp in Riva Valdobbia at almost 2200 m. It says the Slow Food Macagn method of working the milk still warm from milking was, in all probability, devised because wood was hard to bring to those heights.
