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Meat from Southern China

Lap cheong (Cantonese sausage)臘腸

Boundary entry, mainly cured and dried. Strips of lean pork and fat are mixed with sugar, salt, soy sauce and Chinese liquor, stuffed into pig casing and dried in air for 4–7 days or in ovens at about 50 °C. Microbes take part in its ripening, but no starter is added and it is cooked before eating.

Fully documentedMeat4 days – 7 days

Recipe

Lap cheong (Cantonese sausage), a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Peachyeung316, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Amounts from a sourceProportions as given in a 2024 review of Chinese fermented meats; salt and soy amounts are not stated.
Lean pork to pork fat, cut into strips about 2 cm8:2 or 7:3[mao2024]
Sugar10 %[mao2024]
White liquor (baijiu)2 %[mao2024]
Salt, soy sauce, ginger, white pepperIn one producer's Cantonese formulation[cai2025]
Natural pig casing[mao2024]
Starternone (spontaneous ripening flora; no starter is added)

Total time across the recorded steps: 4 days – 7 days

Start
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What changes: Lean pork and fat are cut into strips

Step 1 of 5
Cut pork and fat into strips
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: lean and fat strips.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Boundary entry, mainly cured and dried. Strips of lean pork and fat are mixed with sugar, salt, soy sauce and Chinese liquor, stuffed into pig casing and dried in air for 4–7 days or in ovens at about 50 °C. Microbes take part in its ripening, but no starter is added and it is cooked before eating. Made in 5 steps over 4 days – 7 days. The longest step, dry in air or ovens, takes 4–7 days (Mao J. et al. 2024) and runs at 50 °C (Chen X. et al. 2024). Staphylococci and micrococci does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step4–7 daysReported[mao2024]Dry in air or ovens
Temperature50 °CReported[chen2024]Dry in air or ovens

What makes this one different

Lap cheong gets its sweetness and alcoholic aroma from about 10 % sugar and Chinese liquor, and Cantonese makers dry it fast in warm ovens, while Sichuan sausage is spiced with chilli and Sichuan pepper and air-dried at room temperature.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Sichuan la changChilli and Sichuan pepper; air-dried at room temperature.
  • Five-spice sausageSeasoned with five-spice powder, ginger, soy sauce and cooking wine in one producer's recipe (Cai 2025).
  • Taiwanese xiangchangRarely dried the way Cantonese sausage is, and may use more sugar, giving a sweeter taste (Wikipedia).

Safety

A 2024 review says traditional Cantonese sausages, made without added starter cultures, are highly susceptible to the growth of harmful microorganisms, and that inoculated starter cultures can inhibit pathogens and the formation of harmful compounds such as biogenic amines. The sausages in the studies were steamed or boiled before tasting.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Wikipedia says Chinese sausage is believed to date from the Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern Dynasties or earlier, and that its earliest documented method is in the Qimin Yaoshu, an agricultural text of the Northern Wei period. A 2024 review calls Cantonese sausage a speciality of Guangdong, popular for its sweet taste.

  1. [mao2024] Mao J. et al. 2024, The contribution of microorganisms to the quality and flavor formation of Chinese traditional fermented meat and fish products, Foods 13(4):608 (section 2.5 Cantonese sausage)paper
  2. [chen2024] Chen X. et al. 2024, Aroma characterization of Sichuan and Cantonese sausages using electronic nose, GC–MS, GC-O, odor activity values and metagenomic, Food Chemistry X 24:101924paper
  3. [cai2025] Cai X. et al. 2025, Characterization of the quality and flavor in Chinese sausage, comparison between Cantonese, five-spice, and mala sausages, Foods 14(11):1982paper
  4. [s1] Wikipedia, Chinese sausage (outline only)wiki