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Fish and seafood from Japan
Split, gutted fish such as mackerel scad and flying fish are soaked for 10 to 20 hours in kusaya-jiru, a brown, smelly brine that has been reused and topped up for more than a century, then rinsed and dried in the sun. Bacteria living in the old brine give the fish its strong smell and help it keep about twice as long as ordinary salted dried fish.
| Fresh, lean fish (aomuro, muroaji or tobiuo), split, gutted, washed and bled | [fujii1999] |
| Kusaya-jiru, the house brine kept for generations | Salt content varies by island[fujii1999][masaki2026] |
| Starter | backslop (the brine is reused with no added culture) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 h – 20 h
What changes: The fish are split, gutted and washed until the blood is gone
Output: split, drained fish.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Split, gutted fish such as mackerel scad and flying fish are soaked for 10 to 20 hours in kusaya-jiru, a brown, smelly brine that has been reused and topped up for more than a century, then rinsed and dried in the sun. Bacteria living in the old brine give the fish its strong smell and help it keep about twice as long as ordinary salted dried fish. Made in 4 steps over 10 h – 20 h. The longest step, soak in kusaya-jiru, takes 10–20 h (Fujii T. 1999). Salt is 2.7–11.1 % (Fujii T. 1999). "Corynebacterium" and Marinospirillum spiral bacteria do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 10–20 hReported[fujii1999] | Soak in kusaya-jiru |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 2.7–11.1 %Measured[fujii1999] | Soak in kusaya-jiru |
Kusaya is made like ordinary salted dried fish, but the fish soak in an old, living brine instead of fresh salt water. The brine's bacteria give the smell and slow spoilage.
E. coli, Vibrio parahaemolyticus and staphylococci were not found in kusaya brine, and kusaya keeps nearly twice as long as salted dried fish made from the same fish. Streptomyces from the brine make compounds active against moulds, yeasts and bacteria. Japanese Wikipedia, relaying a 1995 study, adds that the brine has few histamine-forming bacteria and holds histamine-degrading ones. Spoilage bacteria were not detected in recent metagenomic analyses of the gravy (Masaki et al. 2026, citing earlier work). Those findings concern the makers' own long-kept gravy. This page's sources put brine salt as low as 2.7 % on some islands and the pH at neutral, and none tests a brine started at home, so they do not show that any other brine is safe.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Kusaya is said to have started in the Izu Islands, probably on Niijima, in the Edo period, when islanders paid their taxes in salt and used salt sparingly, so the curing brine was reused and topped up. Hachijōjima's makers say they began with brine given by Niijima. How old the brines are is stated differently, Masaki et al. (2026) say reused for over a century, Fujii et al. (2016) for several hundred years.
