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Fish and seafood from Japan
Skipjack fillets are simmered, deboned and smoked again and again until their moisture falls to 26 % or less, which gives arabushi. For karebushi, the fillets are scraped and covered with Aspergillus mould, sun-dried and brushed clean, about four times over six months. The moulds break down fat and leave a mellower flavour and colour.
| Skipjack, headed, gutted and cut into four loin pieces | [maff][buma2024] |
| Wood for smoking | The EU regulation describes smoking and drying over combusting woods[eu2015] |
| Katsuobushi mould (Aspergillus; long said to be A. glaucus and related species), sprayed onto the arabushi surface | [buma2024][takenaka-ifo] |
| Starter | Aspergillus moulds sprayed onto the arabushi surface |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6.3 months
What changes: The skipjack is headed, gutted and cut into four loins
Output: four loin pieces per fish.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Skipjack fillets are simmered, deboned and smoked again and again until their moisture falls to 26 % or less, which gives arabushi. For karebushi, the fillets are scraped and covered with Aspergillus mould, sun-dried and brushed clean, about four times over six months. The moulds break down fat and leave a mellower flavour and colour. Made in 6 steps over 6.3 months. The longest step, grow mould, sun-dry and brush off, about four times, takes 6 months (Takenaka S) and runs at 27 °C (Takenaka S). Aspergillus chevalieri and Aspergillus pseudoglaucus, A. amstelodami, A. ruber and A. montevidensis do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6 monthsReported[takenaka-ifo][maff] | Grow mould, sun-dry and brush off, about four times |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 27 °CReported[takenaka-ifo] | Grow mould, sun-dry and brush off, about four times |
Katsuobushi is cooked and smoked before it is fermented, and the ferment is a dry surface mould, not a brine. Arabushi stops after smoking; only karebushi and honkarebushi are moulded.
Repeated smoking over wood leaves polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons. Because Japanese data showed lower levels were not achievable with good smoking practice, the EU set katsuobushi limits of 5.0 μg/kg benzo(a)pyrene and 30.0 μg/kg for the sum of four PAHs. Low water activity (0.62 in karebushi) keeps it shelf-stable.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
MAFF says bonito dried or boiled to keep is recorded in the Taiho Code (701) and Engishiki (905). The modern method is said to have begun in Kii Province in 1674, and to have reached Makurazaki through Mori Yahei in 1707.
