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Soy and legumes from Denmark
Cooks and food scientists now make miso from legumes other than soy, using the same method of koji, cooked legume paste and salt left to ripen for months. Noma in Copenhagen made misos from yellow peas, Gotland lentils and fava beans, and a Portuguese study ripened chickpea, lupin and cowpea misos for 18 months.
| Cooked legume paste (chickpea, lupin or cowpea)72.9 g | [santos2025] |
| Rice koji (Aspergillus oryzae)20.9 g | [santos2025] |
| Sea salt3 g | [santos2025] |
| Unpasteurised miso2.2 g | Backslop from an older miso[santos2025] |
| Yeast and lactic bacteria culture1 g | [santos2025] |
| Starter | defined culture: rice koji, plus backslopped miso and added yeasts and lactic bacteria |
Total time across the recorded steps: 18 months
What changes: Koji mould grows over steamed rice spread on a tray
The rice was steamed at 100 °C for 30 min, seeded at 1 × 10⁴ spores/g and turned three times a day. Output: rice koji.
Microbes at work in this step
Aspergillus oryzae grows over the steamed rice
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cooks and food scientists now make miso from legumes other than soy, using the same method of koji, cooked legume paste and salt left to ripen for months. Noma in Copenhagen made misos from yellow peas, Gotland lentils and fava beans, and a Portuguese study ripened chickpea, lupin and cowpea misos for 18 months. Made in 4 steps over 18 months. The longest step, pack into salted jars and ripen, takes 18 months (Santos R 2025) and runs at 19–21 °C (Santos R 2025). Salt is 3–12 % (Santos R 2025). Aspergillus oryzae, grown on rice as koji and Added yeasts and bacteria: Zygosaccharomyces rouxii, Debaryomyces hansenii, Candida versatilis, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Tetragenococcus halophilus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 18 monthsReported[santos2025] | Pack into salted jars and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 19–21 °CReported[santos2025] | Pack into salted jars and ripen |
| Salt | 3–12 %Reported[santos2025] | Mix legume, koji and salt |
| Acidity | pH 5Measured[santos2025] | Pack into salted jars and ripen |
The method is ordinary miso; only the legume changes. Noma's work found that the legume shaped the bacteria most, while place shaped the fungi slightly more.
Lupin seeds carry quinolizidine alkaloids, which are toxic. In the Portuguese study the lupin was soaked for 10 days, with the water changed twice a day, to reduce the alkaloid content before it was cooked (Santos 2025). The study does not report alkaloid levels in the finished miso. In a separate test of home debittering as printed on the packets, alkaloids fell 94–99 %, but all eight dried lupin samples stayed above the 200 mg/kg limit Australia and New Zealand set for lupin flour (Peloso 2026), so this is not a tested home method for bitter lupin. In that survey most brined lupins and all ready-to-use products met the limit. Grass pea holds the neurotoxic amino acid ODAP. Eating it almost alone for months can cause neurolathyrism, a spastic paralysis of the legs, though one review calls it safe within a normal diet (Singh and Rao 2013). Fava beans hold vicine and convicine, which can cause favism, an acute haemolytic anaemia, in people with G6PD deficiency (Khazaei 2019). The 3 % salt batch is below the 5–13 % salt Santos gives for traditional miso, and the paper reports no pathogen test. The FDA's fish-products guidance lists Clostridium botulinum type A and proteolytic types B and F as able to grow above pH 4.6 and up to 10 % salt in the food's water. The chickpea misos ended near pH 5 in sealed jars, so do not treat this research recipe as a tested home recipe.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
A grass pea sweet miso made in Portugal is described in a 2023 paper, which cites Santos et al. (2021) for the recipe (Simões 2023). Kothe et al. (2024) analysed eight novel misos made at Noma in Copenhagen and six at Inua in Tokyo, from yellow peas, Gotland lentils, fava beans, rye bread and soybeans. Santos et al. (2025) ripened chickpea, lupin and cowpea misos for 18 months.
