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Meat from Canadian Arctic

Igunaqigunaq (Inuktitut)

Igunaq is walrus or seal meat and fat aged without salt or starter, sewn into the animal's own skin or cached under rocks and gravel for weeks. It is eaten raw. The process is decomposition more than acid fermentation, so nothing in the food stops type E botulism. Steady cold lowers that risk but does not remove it.

Fully documentedMeat14 days – 42 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedTraditional practice with no fixed amounts. The whole recipe is meat and fat from one animal, aged in its own skin.
Walrus or seal meat and fatMeat and fat pieces with nothing else added[leclair2008]
Skin pouch (puurtaq) from the same animal, or a modern containerPlastic bags, hard plastic containers, wooden boxes and barrels are also used[leclair2008]
No saltNothing is added to the meat[leclair2008]
Starternone added; the pouch holds meat and fat only

Total time across the recorded steps: 14 days – 42 days

Start
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What changes: Starting material: walrus or seal meat and fat, butchered on the shore

Step 1 of 4
Butcher the walrus or seal
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: meat and fat pieces.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

spores of C. botulinum type E can reach the meat from coastal rocks, tidal water and shoreline soil during butchering

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Igunaq is walrus or seal meat and fat aged without salt or starter, sewn into the animal's own skin or cached under rocks and gravel for weeks. It is eaten raw. The process is decomposition more than acid fermentation, so nothing in the food stops type E botulism. Steady cold lowers that risk but does not remove it. Made in 4 steps over 14 days – 42 days. The longest step, cache under rocks and gravel to age, takes 14–42 days (Leclair D. 2008) and runs at 2–23 °C (Leclair D. 2008). Clostridium does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step14–42 daysReported[leclair2008]Cache under rocks and gravel to age
Temperature2–23 °CMeasured[leclair2008]Cache under rocks and gravel to age
AciditypH 5.5Measured[leclair2008]Cache under rocks and gravel to age

What makes this one different

Igunaq has no salt, sugar or starter, and its pH rises toward neutral instead of falling. Unlike acid-fermented sausages, nothing in the food itself stops C. botulinum type E; only steady, very low temperature holds it back.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Walrus igunaqThe classic form, cached under stones or pebbles; Tigullaraq says it ages better in loose gravel.
  • UtjaqAged seal flippers and paws only, in a skin pouch or a modern container (Nunavik).
  • Caribou and fish igunaqThe Nunavik thesis lists caribou and fish, besides seal, walrus and beluga, among the animals used to make igunaq.
  • Kopalhen (Chukchi)Wikipedia describes meat and fat of walrus and other marine mammals, caribou and birds buried raw near the shore to ferment over autumn and freeze over winter (outline only; not covered by the studies here).

Safety

This page records a traditional practice; it is not a recipe to follow. Igunaq is eaten raw, and aged marine mammal meat gave Nunavik an average of more than 3 reported type E botulism cases per 10,000 people over 1996–2004. Botulism can kill, and the toxin cannot be seen, smelled or tasted (CDC). In a thesis challenge study, no seal igunaq aged at 4 °C formed type E toxin, though two samples at 4 °C tested positive for type B toxin. At 10 and 20 °C, in samples inoculated with type E spores, toxin formed within one to two weeks, and seal skin pouches and plastic containers made no difference to how fast. Field batches in the same thesis averaged 10 °C, and toxin was found in two batches the producer had judged edible, so a batch that seems good can still be poisonous. The thesis recommends cleaner butchering plus 4 °C or lower for the whole ageing period, to reduce the risk rather than end it, and a later Canadian review says storage below 3 °C prevents toxin during ageing. Boiling destroys the toxin (5 minutes in the thesis; CDC advises 10 minutes for home-fermented Alaska Native foods), so raw igunaq has no such protection. Producers cited in the thesis name plastic bags, high temperature, lack of fat and still air around the preparation as factors that may lead to poisonous igunaq. Trichinella is a separate hazard. In one preliminary study of walrus linked to two human trichinellosis outbreaks, larvae stayed infective in meat frozen at −20 °C for up to 20 months, so freezing did not remove the risk in that study. They were not infective in field igunaq aged 4–5 and 10 months, and the authors call for more research on igunaq aged under other conditions.

Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum type E (spores on coastal rocks, seal skin and gut contents); Clostridium botulinum type B toxin (in two inoculated seal igunaq lab samples at 4 °C; an unexpected result, source strain not confirmed); Trichinella nativa larvae in walrus meat (infective in frozen walrus meat; none infective in 4–5 and 10-month field igunaq in one preliminary study).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Tigullaraq (2008) names Igloolik and Hall Beach as the communities known for the best igunaq on Baffin Island. Plastic bags, hard plastic containers, wooden boxes and galvanized barrels are now used in Nunavik as well as the skin pouch (Leclair 2008).

  1. [leclair2008] Leclair D. 2008, Molecular epidemiology and risk assessment of human botulism in the Canadian Arctic, PhD thesis, University of Ottawapaper
  2. [leclair2013] Leclair D., Fung J., Isaac-Renton J.L., Proulx J.F., May-Hadford J., Ellis A., Ashton E., Bekal S., Farber J.M., Blanchfield B., Austin J.W. 2013, Foodborne botulism in Canada, 1985–2005, Emerging Infectious Diseases 19(6):961–968paper
  3. [cdc-prev] CDC, Preventing botulism (botulism prevention page)gov
  4. [leclair2004] Leclair D., Forbes L.B., Suppa S., Proulx J.F., Gajadhar A.A. 2004, A preliminary investigation on the infectivity of Trichinella larvae in traditional preparations of walrus meat, Parasitology Research 93:507–509 (abstract)paper
  5. [campbell2022] Campbell R., Hauptmann A., Campbell K., Fox S., Marco M.L. 2022, Better understanding of food and human microbiomes through collaborative research on Inuit fermented foods, Microbiome Research Reports 1:5paper
  6. [tigullaraq2008] Tigullaraq E. 2008, Igunaq - Aged meat, Nunavut Municipal Training Organization (the nmto.ca page is gone; read from the Wayback Machine copy of 27 April 2022)web
  7. [wp] Wikipedia, Igunaq (outline only)wiki