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Vegetables from Iga and Nabari, Mie, Japan
In Iga, white melons (shirouri) picked in summer are cored, salted and sun-dried, then stuffed with miso and chopped salted vegetables such as ginger and shiso, capped and pinned with a skewer, and sunk in tamari soy sauce or miso. Yōkan-zuke matures in tamari for one to two years, while the milder Igagoe-zuke spends about two weeks in tama-miso and soy sauce.
| Shirouri white melons | Iga basin summer crop; the top is cut off as a lid and the core removed[maff-sirouri] |
| Salt | Put inside and rubbed on the outside before sun-drying[maff-sirouri] |
| Miso | Packed into the hollow[maff-sirouri] |
| Ginger, shiso leaves and seeds, eggplant, carrot or radish | Finely chopped and salt-rubbed, mixed into the miso; cucumber in some versions[maff-sirouri][maff-mie] |
| Tamari soy sauce or miso | The pickling medium[maff-sirouri] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 14 days – 2 years
What changes: The top of each white melon is cut off as a lid and the core is pulled out
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
In Iga, white melons (shirouri) picked in summer are cored, salted and sun-dried, then stuffed with miso and chopped salted vegetables such as ginger and shiso, capped and pinned with a skewer, and sunk in tamari soy sauce or miso. Yōkan-zuke matures in tamari for one to two years, while the milder Igagoe-zuke spends about two weeks in tama-miso and soy sauce. Made in 5 steps over 14 days – 2 years. The longest step, sink in tamari or miso to ferment and mature, takes 14 days – 2 years (MAFF にっぽん伝統食図鑑 (traditional foods) 2026).
| Main step | 14 days – 2 yearsReported[maff-sirouri] | Sink in tamari or miso to ferment and mature |
|---|
The melon is a container as well as the food. It is cored, sun-dried and filled with miso and vegetables before it goes into tamari and Iga's yōkan-zuke is matured in tamari for one to two years.
MAFF says the melon is matured for a long time to make it keep better. The melon is rubbed with salt and sun-dried until the water is gone before it is stuffed, and the milder Igagoe-zuke is made lighter in salt.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Iga households once pickled summer melons in home-made tama-miso to serve to guests. A story says the Tsu lord Tōdō Takatora kept it at Iga Ueno castle in the 17th century as field food to build up samurai spirit, which gave the name yōkan, 'nourishing the liver'. Miyazakiya's yōkan-zuke is also known for having been taken by a Antarctic research expedition.
