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Cheese from Germany, Hesse
Sour-milk quark from cow milk, set by acid alone without rennet and ripened for one to two weeks, is ground with ripening salts, salt and sometimes caraway and shaped into small low-fat loaves of 20–125 g. The loaves ripen two to three days in warm sweating rooms, then one to three days more with a red smear. Handkäs mit Musik is the cheese marinated in onion, vinegar and oil.
| Sour-milk quark (Sauermilchquark) | From cow milk only, ripened 7–14 days; it may come from outside Hesse. It must be white, soft but cohesive, slightly grainy, cleanly milk-sour, with at least 32% dry matter and pH below 4.2[rpgi-flyer][eu-oj-2009] |
| Ripening salts and table salt (possibly iodised) | [rpgi-flyer][eu-oj-2009] |
| Casein | Optional[rpgi-flyer][eu-oj-2009] |
| Red-smear cultures | [rpgi-flyer][eu-oj-2009] |
| Carawayoptional | [rpgi-flyer][yumda-handkase] |
| Onions, vinegar and oilto taste | The "Musik" marinade, with pepper and salt, added for serving[rpgi-flyer][yumda-handkase] |
| Starter | the quark is soured by acid alone, without rennet; red-smear pure cultures are added for ripening |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 20 days
What changes: Acid-set skim-milk quark ripens for one to two weeks before it becomes cheese
Output: ripened quark.
Microbes at work in this step
the quark has been soured by acid alone, without rennet
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sour-milk quark from cow milk, set by acid alone without rennet and ripened for one to two weeks, is ground with ripening salts, salt and sometimes caraway and shaped into small low-fat loaves of 20–125 g. The loaves ripen two to three days in warm sweating rooms, then one to three days more with a red smear. Handkäs mit Musik is the cheese marinated in onion, vinegar and oil. Made in 5 steps over 10 days – 20 days. The longest step, ripen the sour-milk quark, takes 7–14 days (Regierungspräsidium Gießen (Hesse) 2018). Red-smear pure cultures on the surface and Brevibacterium linens, which the Yumda encyclopedia names as the red culture sprayed on in brine do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 7–14 daysReported[rpgi-flyer] | Ripen the sour-milk quark |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 18–30 °CSet[eu-oj-2009] | Sweat in warm rooms |
| Acidity | pH up to 4.2Set[eu-oj-2009] | Ripen the sour-milk quark |
Handkäse is made from quark soured by acid alone, not from rennet curd, and it ripens in days, not months. Every step must happen in Hesse, though the quark may come from elsewhere. Harzer is the same type of cheese from the Harz.
The quark must have a pH below 4.2. The single document says the small loaves are packed at the dairy in Hesse, because unpacked transport would dry the surface and risk bacteriological infection.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The PGI document says Handkäse from Hesse is first recorded in 1813, when sellers from Groß-Gerau sold hand-shaped cheeses at the Mainz market. It became a staple of poor households, and a cheese-shaping machine invented in Groß-Gerau in 1893 raised output.
