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Cheese from Georgia, Tusheti
Raw whole milk from Tushetian sheep, Georgian mountain cows, or both, is strained through cloth and hairy herbs and set with calf or lamb rennet at 35–37 °C. The drained cheeses are packed into a guda, a sheep, goat or calf skin turned hair-side in, with dry salt between them. After 1–3 warm days the bag ripens in a dry, cool place for at least 60 days, never above 22 °C.
| Raw whole milk of Tushetian sheep and/or Georgian mountain cattle | Mixed cheese uses 50/50 % ± 5 % sheep and cow milk; local goat milk up to 10 % may be added[uk-guda] |
| Rennet from calf or lamb stomach, prepared beforehand | [uk-guda] |
| Dry salt; no other ingredient is allowed | [uk-guda] |
| Nettles or dead-nettles, feathergrass and other hairy Tusheti herbs, as a milk filter | [uk-guda] |
| A guda bag of sheep, goat or calf skin | [uk-guda] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 2.1 months
What changes: Starting material: raw milk strained through cloth and hairy mountain herbs
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw whole milk from Tushetian sheep, Georgian mountain cows, or both, is strained through cloth and hairy herbs and set with calf or lamb rennet at 35–37 °C. The drained cheeses are packed into a guda, a sheep, goat or calf skin turned hair-side in, with dry salt between them. After 1–3 warm days the bag ripens in a dry, cool place for at least 60 days, never above 22 °C. Made in 7 steps over 2 months – 2.1 months. The longest step, ripen in the skin, takes at least 2 months (Ministry of Environmental Protection and Agri…) and runs at up to 22 °C (Ministry of Environmental Protection and Agri…). Lactobacillus brevis, L. plantarum, L. casei and L. buchneri, the main lactobacilli found in raw-milk motal, a related skin-bag cheese of Iran does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 2 monthsSet[uk-guda] | Ripen in the skin |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 22 °CSet[uk-guda] | Ripen in the skin |
Ripened at least 60 days in a whole animal skin turned hair-side in, with only dry salt. The milk is strained through hairy mountain herbs, and the cheese is made only on the summer pastures of Tusheti.
The milk stays raw. The specification caps salt at 8 %, requires at least 60 days of ripening and forbids temperatures above 22 °C, but it sets no microbial limits, and no source on this page tests these steps against pathogens. ANSES names Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli as hazards of raw-milk cheeses and tells pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity to avoid them, apart from cooked pressed kinds such as Gruyère.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Tushetian farmers developed the guda to keep cheese through the long winter. A 1922–1923 article by Petre Melikishvili in the Tbilisi University journal describes the method, and the 1976 film 'Tushetian shepherd' shows the transhumance. A 2023 presentation by Ia Ebralidze of the NGO Elkana says transhumance has been the Tush people's way of life for centuries and still continues, that the Tushetian Guda specification was updated and registered, and that a producers' association was established.
