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Cheese from North-west Iran
Raw sheep or goat milk is set with rennet, the curd is pressed in cloth, crumbled and salted, then packed tight into a prepared sheepskin (in Iran) or into terracotta pots (in Armenia). Sealed in the skin or pot, it ripens for months, slowly souring into a crumbly, salty, acidic cheese.
| Raw sheep milk | Traditional Iranian Motal uses no added starter[azizi2017][rezaei2020] |
| Rennet | Fungal rennet at 0.01 g per litre in one lab study; calf rennet in Armenia[rezaei2020][slowfood-motal] |
| Salt30 g per kg of curd | Mixed into the crushed curd at 30 g/kg in one lab version of the Iranian method[rezaei2020] |
| Prepared sheepskin (Iran) or terracotta pot sealed with beeswax (Armenia) | [rezaei2020][slowfood-motal] |
| Mountain herbs | Armenian Motal; the crumbled curd is seasoned with mountain herbs[slowfood-motal] |
| Starter | spontaneous (raw-milk flora), plus rennet |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3.1 months
What changes: Starting material: raw sheep milk, used without any added culture
Traditional Iranian Motal uses raw sheep milk with no added starter culture.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw sheep or goat milk is set with rennet, the curd is pressed in cloth, crumbled and salted, then packed tight into a prepared sheepskin (in Iran) or into terracotta pots (in Armenia). Sealed in the skin or pot, it ripens for months, slowly souring into a crumbly, salty, acidic cheese. Made in 7 steps over 3.1 months. The longest step, move to the final skin and ripen, takes 3 months (Rezaei A 2020) and runs at 6–12 °C (Rezaei A 2020). Salt is 3 % (Rezaei A 2020). Lactobacilli of raw-milk Motal does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3 monthsReported[rezaei2020] | Move to the final skin and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–12 °CReported[rezaei2020] | Move to the final skin and ripen |
| Salt | 3 %Reported[rezaei2020] | Crumble and salt |
| Acidity | pH 5.3 → 4.71Measured[rezaei2020] | Move to the final skin and ripen |
Motal is crumbled, salted curd packed into a skin bag or a sealed pot and ripened as one mass, not as whole wheels. Armenian Motal is seasoned with mountain herbs and ripens in terracotta under beeswax; Iranian Motal ripens in sheepskin.
Traditional Motal is made from raw milk without a starter, and one survey found Staphylococcus aureus in half its samples. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than hard cooked ones.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus (found in 3 of 6 traditional samples, up to 9 × 10^3 CFU/g).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
In north-west Iran, Motal is made without a starter from raw milk and ripened in a sheepskin bag by long-standing local farmers' experience. Traditional producers use sheepskin for its ease of preparation, availability, affordability and good permeability (Rezaei 2020). In Armenia, Motal is an age-old cheese of goat shepherds; keeping food in terracotta goes back at least 5,000 years, and families still keep goat cheese in pots for themselves. Slow Food made Armenian Motal a Presidium to help its makers.
