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Tea leaf from Ōtoyo, Nagaoka District, Kōchi Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan
Goishi-cha is a Japanese tea fermented twice. Summer tea leaves are cut with their branches and steamed in a tub, left for about a week where moulds grow, then packed into a tub under weights for about two weeks while lactic bacteria sour them. The pressed cake is cut into small squares and sun-dried, and the dark squares laid out look like the black stones of the game of go.
| Tea leaves cut with their branches | Two kinds of mountain tea and Yabukita, cut with their branches in June and July when the leaf is thickest (MAFF); Ukeda adds that they are grown without pesticides and cut from mid-June to mid-July[maff2020][ukeda2015] |
| No starter | Moulds and lactic bacteria come from the leaves, mats and tubs (Ukeda). MAFF says moulds living in the earthen floor ferment the steamed leaves; Okada 1996 found Lactiplantibacillus plantarum in the steaming liquid and the tub brine[maff2020][okada1996][ukeda2015] |
| Starter | spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 19 days – 33 days
What changes: Starting material: mature summer tea leaves cut with their branches
Cut in June and July when the leaf is thickest (MAFF); mid-June to mid-July (Ukeda). Output: tea leaves on branches.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Goishi-cha is a Japanese tea fermented twice. Summer tea leaves are cut with their branches and steamed in a tub, left for about a week where moulds grow, then packed into a tub under weights for about two weeks while lactic bacteria sour them. The pressed cake is cut into small squares and sun-dried, and the dark squares laid out look like the black stones of the game of go. Made in 6 steps over 19 days – 33 days. The longest step, pack into tubs under stones (anaerobic fermentation), takes 10–20 days (Ukeda H. 2015). Aspergillus fumigatus, the main mould of the aerobic pile; it grows even at 53 °C and breaks down filter paper, and is thought to damage the leaf cell walls and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, the main lactic acid bacterium in the steaming liquid and the tub brine, thought to make the tea sour do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 10–20 daysReported[ukeda2015][shimamura2017][maff2020][hirota2011] | Pack into tubs under stones (anaerobic fermentation) |
|---|
Goishi-cha is one of only two Japanese teas fermented in two stages, first by mould in the open and then by lactic bacteria under weight. Ishizuchi-kurocha is the other; Awa-bancha skips the mould stage and Batabata-cha skips the lactic stage.
Goishi-cha is dried to about 10 % moisture, which keeps it stable. Brew it with boiling water.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Goishi-cha is recorded in 1745 in the Toyonaga district of Nagaoka, so it is close to 300 years old or more. It was traded down to the Seto Inland Sea and the Shiwaku islands, where its sourness suited tea gruel made with slightly salty well water. Production fell until a single farm was left in the late 1970s; a producers' group formed in 2005 and a cooperative in 2010 to revive it. The method is thought to have come from Southeast Asian miang. MAFF adds that in Tosa the tea was once traded for salt, that after the Showa era began production fell and only the Ogasawara family kept it up, and that four farms and one company make it today; it suggests roots in Yunnan with the Bulang people's sour tea. In 2018 the three Shikoku fermented teas were selected as folk cultural property needing a record, and in March 2026 Ōtoyo's Goishi-cha making was designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property (Agency for Cultural Affairs).
