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Cheese from Italy, Liguria
A family of farm cheeses from the eastern Ligurian valleys, made from whatever milk the farm has, mostly raw cow milk, sometimes mixed with ewe milk. The milk is warmed to 32–35 °C and set with rennet paste, the curd is broken to rice-grain size and pressed in wooden hoops under a slate or marble weight for about a day. The cheeses are dry-salted for two days and ripen briefly, rubbed with olive oil.
| Cow milk, or cow and ewe milk | Raw in the regional sheet; ONAF says raw or pasteurised, whole or part-skimmed[lig-levante][onaf-levante] |
| Rennet paste | Made from the stomach of a calf or a lamb[lig-levante] |
| Coarse salt | Dry salt; the Bonassola cheese is rarely salted[lig-levante] |
| Olive oil | Rubbed on the rind during ripening[lig-levante] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 33 days
What changes: Starting material: the farm's raw cow or mixed milk, warmed to 32–35 °C
Output: warm raw milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A family of farm cheeses from the eastern Ligurian valleys, made from whatever milk the farm has, mostly raw cow milk, sometimes mixed with ewe milk. The milk is warmed to 32–35 °C and set with rennet paste, the curd is broken to rice-grain size and pressed in wooden hoops under a slate or marble weight for about a day. The cheeses are dry-salted for two days and ripen briefly, rubbed with olive oil. Made in 6 steps over 33 days. The longest step, ripen, rubbed with oil, takes 30 days (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…).
| Main step | 30 daysReported[onaf-levante] | Ripen, rubbed with oil |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 32–35 °CReported[lig-levante] | Warm the milk |
Each farm makes it from the milk of its own few animals, so the cow and ewe share changes with the season. Its curd is broken and pressed under a stone slab, and its rind is rubbed with olive oil; the western Ligurian formaggette are instead set whole in cuppe and never broken.
Raw-milk cheese, usually eaten fresh or after about a month. ANSES advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli, the main hazards ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
According to the ONAF sheet, each farm family kept a small stable of four or five animals, which gave just enough milk for the household. The animals calved in winter, and the cheese was made by hand in small amounts from the day's milk. Rennet came from liquid bovine rennet or from the stomach of lambs (the quagettu), and a lamb was sold only once the buyer promised to give back the rennet from its stomach.
