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Cheese from Switzerland, Ticino and Italian-speaking Graubünden
Formaggella is a round cheese of Ticino made from goat, cow or mixed milk, soft to semi-hard and full-fat, half-fat or lean. Thermised milk is cultured, set with rennet, cut to hazelnut size, rewarmed to 38 °C and ladled into perforated baskets. After a few hours in brine it ripens at least three weeks in a cellar and forms a thin grey rind.
| Goat, cow or mixed milk | Thermised at 65 °C. The 1913 book describes full-fat cheese from goat milk only and half-fat cheese with skimmed cow milk added[patrimoine-ch] |
| Thermophilic direct starter cultures | [patrimoine-ch] |
| Moulds (optional) | Make the rind whiter[patrimoine-ch] |
| Rennet | Diluted in lukewarm water[patrimoine-ch] |
| Salt | Brine or dry salt[patrimoine-ch] |
| Starter | thermophilic direct starter cultures, with optional moulds |
Total time across the recorded steps: 21 days
What changes: Starting material: goat, cow or mixed milk from the mid-altitude pastures
Originally made before and after the alp season, while the animals are on the intermediate pastures (maggenghi).
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Formaggella is a round cheese of Ticino made from goat, cow or mixed milk, soft to semi-hard and full-fat, half-fat or lean. Thermised milk is cultured, set with rennet, cut to hazelnut size, rewarmed to 38 °C and ladled into perforated baskets. After a few hours in brine it ripens at least three weeks in a cellar and forms a thin grey rind. Made in 8 steps over 21 days. The longest step, ripen in the cellar, takes at least 21 days (Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine c…) and runs at 12–14 °C (Kulinarisches Erbe der Schweiz / Patrimoine c…).
| Main step | at least 21 daysReported[patrimoine-ch][ticino-capre] | Ripen in the cellar |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 12–14 °CReported[patrimoine-ch] | Ripen in the cellar |
Formaggella was first made on the intermediate pastures before and after the alp season, and is now made on the alps and on the plains. It is ladled into perforated baskets and ripened at least three weeks. The inventory says a "true" cheese matures more than ninety days, as alp cheese does, and that the name formaggella is a diminutive of formaggio.
The milk is thermised at 65 °C for about 15 minutes, a milder heat than pasteurising. The Swiss inventory says thermising has been used since the 1990s to improve hygiene control without taking much from the flavour.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The inventory dates formaggella to the use of the alpine pastures from around 1200. A 1913 book on goats describes full-fat and half-fat cheeses of 550 g to 2 kg, salted after two days and ripened one to two months, up to five. Until at least the first half of the 20th century it was eaten only at home; thermising became common in the 1990s.
