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Cheese from Italy, Lombardia
Raw cow milk, whole or with the first milking skimmed by hand, is warmed to 34–36 °C and set with liquid calf rennet. The curd is broken gently, then heated to 40–42 °C while it is broken to hazelnut size, and packed into small moulds. It is dry-salted and ripened 25–30 days, or up to 60 days for an aged cheese.
| Raw cow milk from one or two milkings | Tradition calls for whole milk from one milking; the first milking may be skimmed by hand[lombardia-pat] |
| Liquid calf rennet | [lombardia-pat] |
| Salt | Rubbed on dry[lombardia-pat] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 25 days – 2 months
What changes: Starting material: raw cow milk, sometimes with the cream skimmed off one milking
The milk of the first milking may be skimmed by hand; tradition uses whole milk of one milking. Output: raw cow milk, whole or part-skimmed.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw cow milk, whole or with the first milking skimmed by hand, is warmed to 34–36 °C and set with liquid calf rennet. The curd is broken gently, then heated to 40–42 °C while it is broken to hazelnut size, and packed into small moulds. It is dry-salted and ripened 25–30 days, or up to 60 days for an aged cheese. Made in 7 steps over 25 days – 2 months. The longest step, ripen, takes 25 days – 2 months (Regione Lombardia 2008).
| Main step | 25 days – 2 monthsReported[lombardia-pat] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 34–36 °CReported[lombardia-pat] | Warm and set with rennet |
Formagela means "little cheese" in the local dialect. It is a small, semi-cooked, dry-salted wheel of raw milk, eaten at one or two months, while the valley's Branzi is a larger mountain cheese.
Made from raw milk and ripened only 25–60 days. The sheet notes that a sour taste can come from making faults. ANSES names Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli as the main raw-milk cheese hazards. It advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children not to eat raw-milk cheeses, except cooked pressed ones such as Comté.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus and its enterotoxins, not measured in this cheese. In a survey of 123 raw or thermised milk Alpine cheeses, including Formagella and cheeses from Bergamo, S. aureus was not detected in 52 % of samples taken before ripening, and two semi-hard cheeses with a top heat of 37–43.6 °C held enterotoxin.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Val Brembana cheeses were known as far as Venice. In the 1600s the Venetian governor Alvise Priuli had a road built through the valley to the Valtellina, around the Duchy of Milan's tolls, and the trade it brought helped the valley.
